My Yatra to Mount Kailash: A Journey of Profound Transformation
On June 8, 2024, my husband & I embarked on a life changing yatra, a pilgrimage, to the center of the earth, Mount Kailash, along with 38 other Desis from the Desi Outdoors (DOERS) group. Mount Kailash is a mountain in Ngari Prefecture, Tibet Autonomous Region of China. It lies in the Kailash Range of the Transhimalaya, in the western part of the Tibetan Plateau. The peak of Mount Kailash is located at an elevation of 21778.2152 ft, near the trijunction between China, India and Nepal.
Desi Outdoors is a vibrant community that brings together outdoor enthusiasts from the South Asian diaspora, fostering a love for nature, adventure, and cultural connection. The group is known for organizing challenging and spiritually significant treks, like the Mount Kailash yatra, which blend physical endurance with cultural and religious exploration.
The yatra to Mount Kailash, hosted and led by Vivek, head honcho of the DOERS group. This pilgrimage attracted a diverse group of participants, primarily from NJ, ranging in age from 17 to mid-60s. The group included a mix of experienced trekkers and first-time pilgrims, with backgrounds in various professions, such as IT, healthcare, education, and business. United by our shared cultural heritage and spiritual goals, forming a supportive and closely-knit community throughout the journey.
In preparation for the physically demanding journey, the group underwent several months of rigorous training. This included long 12–13-mile day hikes and elevation training to build the endurance and strength required for the trek. The dedication to this preparation ensured we were ready to tackle the challenges of high altitudes and tough terrain, making the experience both physically and spiritually fulfilling.
**DAY 01: (09 JUNE SUNDAY) ARRIVAL IN KATHMANDU AIRPORT (4,429 ft)**
Arriving in Kathmandu, I felt a mix of excitement and reverence. This city, rich in culture and history, welcomed us with open arms. We were a total of 39 people, a large group ranging in age from 17 years to 67 years. It was amazing g to embark on a spiritual pilgrimage with so many people from different walks of life. That evening, we met some old friends and got introduced to new friends and spent the evening exploring its vibrant streets. We called it an early night as we were feeling the fatigue from the long travel from NY to Kathmandu.
**DAY 02: (10 JUNE MONDAY) ARRIVAL IN KATHMANDU**
After a restful night, we joined our group in Kathmandu. The day was dedicated to finalizing our Chinese visa applications, a crucial step for our journey into Tibet. Despite the administrative tasks, the day was filled with anticipation. We went on a day trip to Chandragiri Hills. Just a short drive from Kathmandu, it offers breathtaking Himalayan views, adventurous activities of cultural significance and a relaxing atmosphere. We spent the day here visiting the Bhaleshwor Mahadev Temple, Sky cycling and Ziplining. What an amazing day that turned out to be.
A day at Chandragiri hills
**DAY 03: (11 JUNE TUESDAY) KATHMANDU – SUNDARIJAL DRIVE AND TREK TO CHISAPANI (7,054 ft)
Our adventure began with a scenic drive to Sundarijal, followed by a hike through the lush Shivpuri National Park. The diverse flora and fauna, coupled with views of Ganesh Himal, set a serene tone for our trek. The overnight stay in a guesthouse was a perfect end to our first day. Even though it was hot and humid, the company and the beautiful vistas, made this acclimatization hike and memorable experience. We got to move through some local villages, stopping every now and then to take pictures with locals as they went about their day.
**DAY 04: (12 JUNE WEDNESDAY) CHISAPANI TO NAGARKOT (7,201 ft) **
Hiking through dense forests, we reached Nagarkot, a place renowned for its panoramic Himalayan views, including Mount Everest. The sense of serenity here was overwhelming, offering a glimpse into the spiritual essence of our journey. We had lunch at a gorgeous resort before heading back to Kathmandu.
**DAY 05: (13 JUNE THURSDAY) SIGHTSEEING TOURS IN KATHMANDU**
We spent the day exploring Kathmandu’s historic sites, including Durbar Square and the sacred Pashupatinath Temple. These sites enriched our understanding of the cultural and spiritual context of our yatra. We learned about the World Heritage sites and the Stupa. Boudhanath Stupa is a significant spiritual landmark for Buddhists around the world. The stupa is believed to contain the remains of Kasyapa Buddha, one of the earlier Buddhas, and it is considered a sacred site for Buddhist meditation and worship.
That evening, back at the hotel, we were briefed on the start of our yatra and what to expect along the way till we finish the Parikrama. It was such an informative session. We learned what to pack and how to pack and at which points we should expect climatic changes as we move from the extreme heat in Kathmandu to extreme cold at Mount Kailash.
**DAY 06: (14 JUNE FRIDAY) DRIVE FROM KATHMANDU TO KERUNG (8,858 ft) **
Our journey to Tibet began with an early morning drive to the Tibet border. The car ride was bumpy and at times unsettling as we moved through the mountain range. But eventually we arrived at the border. We had a delicious lunch at a local restaurant at the border before security clearance on the Nepal side. We then walked the short distance to the China boarder, crossing the Friendship Bridge into China. The immigration process in China was long and everyone’s camera rolls on their phones were looked at to ensure we were not the Delai Lama supporters. Finally, we were cleared at immigration, and we met our Tibetan guides, marking the start of a new chapter. Kerung welcomed us with its serene landscapes, a stark contrast to the bustling city of Kathmandu.
We settled in at a beautiful Hotel, enjoying the delicious dinner. That evening reality set in, as we climbed altitude, and the temperatures started to drop. Nervous but still upbeat, the group was abuzz with excitement for the upcoming yatra.
**DAY 07: (15 JUNE SATURDAY) REST DAY IN KERUNG FOR PROPER ACCLIMATIZATION**
Acclimatization was crucial as we adjusted to the higher altitude. A short trek to Milarepa monastery helped us prepare for the challenging days ahead, and the tranquil environment of Kerung provided the perfect setting for reflection and meditation.
The climb to Milarepa Monastery is a rewarding yet challenging experience. Starting from the parking lot, the trek involves a series of steps and paths that lead you up to the monastery.
The trek begins at the parking lot, which is situated at a lower altitude. The climb involves a series of stone steps and well-trodden paths. The steps can be steep and uneven in places, so it’s important to take your time and watch your footing. The total altitude gained from the parking lot to the monastery is significant. The monastery itself is located at an altitude of approximately 3,750 meters (12,303 feet) above sea level.
Along the way, you’ll be treated to stunning views of the surrounding mountains, valleys, and possibly even some wildlife. The path is often lined with prayer flags and offers a serene, spiritual atmosphere. The climb took us approximately 2 hours, plus or minus 30 mins depending on everyone’s fitness levels. We were advised to take breaks and stay hydrated. This trek is not only a physical journey but also a spiritual one, as Milarepa Monastery is a significant site in Tibetan Buddhism.
We all took time to pray and meditate in the Milarepa caves and soak in the peace and serenity before heading down to the parking lot, and back to the hotel.
**DAY 08: (16 JUNE SUNDAY) DRIVE TO SAGA TOWN (14,600 ft) **
As we journeyed through the Tibetan plateau, the stunning vistas of the Himalayas and the towering mountain passes left us in awe. The sheer vastness of the landscape was humbling, a powerful reminder of the spiritual significance of our pilgrimage. Though the drive from Keyrung to Saga took 10 hours, the camaraderie we shared on the bus made the time fly by. We paused for lunch, enjoying a delicious meal prepared by our crew that morning. Dining outdoors, enveloped by the breathtaking Himalayan scenery, became an unforgettable experience, forever etched in our hearts.
**DAY 09: (17 JUNE MONDAY) DRIVE FROM SAGA TO LAKE MANASAROVAR (15,059 ft) **
Reaching Lake Manasarovar was the pinnacle of our spiritual journey. Nestled amidst the majestic mountains, the lake’s tranquil waters seemed to mirror the serenity that enveloped us. As the sun dipped below the horizon, the temperature began to drop, and a biting cold wind swept across the landscape. The sudden chill in the air was a stark contrast to the warmth of the day, reminding us of the raw, untamed beauty of the Himalayas.
Despite the cold, our spirits remained high. We rose at 3:30 a.m., drawn by the sacred energy of the lake, to meditate on its shores as the first light of dawn touched the water. The silence was profound, broken only by the whispers of the wind and the gentle lapping of the waves. The hour-long meditation filled us with a deep sense of peace and purity, unlike anything I had ever experienced. Afterward, we went back to sleep for a brief rest before awakening once more to witness the stunning sunrise over the lake.
**DAY 10: (18 JUNE TUESDAY) MANSAROVAR LAKE TO DARCHEN (15,748 ft) **
Exploring the holy Lake Manasarovar and its surroundings deepened our spiritual connection, enriching our journey in ways we hadn’t imagined. The lake’s pristine beauty, coupled with the deep reverence we felt, made our time there truly unforgettable.
Our crew had set up a tent for us to bathe in the holy water from the lake. The icy cold water was invigorating, serving as a powerful reminder of the physical and spiritual cleansing that this sacred place offered. After our refreshing bath, we gathered for breakfast, followed by a Havan ceremony arranged by the lakeside. Performing the puja in such a sacred setting further deepened our connection to the divine.
The women in our group then decided to dress in their sarees for a photo session by the lake. The weather was perfect, allowing us to fully enjoy the breathtaking vistas as we playfully imagined ourselves as Ma Parvati for a day. This joyful experience added another layer of beauty to our pilgrimage.
We concluded our morning with a short walk to collect the holy water of Lake Manasarovar to bring back with us to the USA, a tangible reminder of the sacredness of this place.
After lunch, we began our drive to Darchen, the base camp for the Kailash trek, bringing us closer to our ultimate goal. The sight of pilgrims’ tents and the vibrant atmosphere heightened our anticipation, filling our hearts with excitement for the journey ahead.
**DAY 11: (19 JUNE WEDNESDAY) START KAILASH TREK; DAY ONE, TREK TO DIRAPUK (16,142 ft) **
Our trek began at 5 a.m., with some of us choosing to do the yatra on foot while others traveled by bus to Yamdwar. Those of us on foot set out from Tarbuche, a place steeped in spiritual significance, with the towering presence of Mount Kailash guiding our path. The early morning air was crisp, and the landscape gradually unfolded as we made our way through the rugged terrain, each step bringing us closer to the sacred mountain.
The trail was lined with prayer flags fluttering in the wind, their vibrant colors adding to the spiritual atmosphere. As we walked, we passed several sacred sites, pausing to offer our prayers and absorb the profound energy of the place. The west face of Kailash came into view, its majestic presence filling us with awe and reverence. The sheer scale and beauty of the mountain were overwhelming, reminding us of the spiritual magnitude of our journey.
By midday, the sun was high in the sky, and the trek became more challenging. The altitude began to take its toll, but the determination to reach our destination kept us moving forward. The camaraderie among our group was palpable, with everyone offering encouragement and support to one another. We were united by a shared sense of purpose, each step a testament to our devotion.
As the day wore on, the landscape shifted, with the rugged mountains giving way to a more barren and desolate terrain. The path became steeper, and the air thinner, but the sight of the Dirapuk Monastery in the distance spurred us on. Reaching Dirapuk by late afternoon was a moment of triumph. The monastery, nestled in the shadow of Kailash, offered a place of rest and reflection.
We spent the evening at the monastery, gathering our strength and preparing for the challenges that lay ahead. The tranquility of the monastery, combined with the proximity to Mount Kailash, created a sense of peace and fulfillment. As we rested, the realization of how far we had come, both physically and spiritually, began to sink in. The journey was far from over, but the experiences of the day had already etched themselves deeply into our hearts.
**DAY 12: (20 JUNE THURSDAY) DAY HIKE TO KAILASH PARBAT CHARANSPARSH AND THEN BACK TO DIRAPUK**
Day 12 was one of the most spiritually significant days of our journey, as it was dedicated to a closer encounter with the revered Mount Kailash. The anticipation and excitement were palpable as we prepared for the day hike to Charansparsh, a place where pilgrims can touch the sacred mountain itself. This was a rare and profound opportunity, a chance to connect directly with the divine energy that Kailash embodies.
We set out in the morning, the air crisp and filled with the serene silence of the mountains. The trail to Charansparsh was challenging, with steep inclines and rugged terrain, but the breathtaking views and the knowledge of what awaited us at the end of the hike kept us motivated. Every step felt purposeful, as if we were being drawn closer to something truly extraordinary.
As we ascended, the landscape around us became increasingly stark and awe-inspiring. The imposing presence of Kailash loomed ever closer, its sheer cliffs and snow-capped peak radiating a sense of power and mystery. The path was lined with prayer flags, their colors vibrant against the rocky backdrop, fluttering in the wind as if carrying our prayers to the heavens.
After several hours of trekking, we finally arrived at Charansparsh, the point where pilgrims can touch the feet of Mount Kailash. Standing before the sacred mountain, the air seemed to vibrate with an energy that was both humbling and uplifting. The experience of Charansparsh, was profoundly moving. It was as if the very essence of Kailash flowed through my fingertips, connecting me to something far greater than myself. The connection I felt with this holy site was indescribable—a moment of deep spiritual communion that transcended words.
We spent some time in silent reflection, absorbing the powerful energy of the place. The sense of peace and sanctity was overwhelming, filling us with a profound sense of gratitude and reverence. This was a moment of personal and spiritual significance that would stay with me forever.
Reluctantly, we began our descent back to Dirapuk, our hearts full of the experience. The journey back was quieter, each of us lost in our thoughts, reflecting on the incredible encounter we had just had with the sacred mountain. The sun was beginning to set as we arrived back at Dirapuk Monastery, its golden light casting long shadows over the landscape.
As we settled in for the evening, the sense of accomplishment and spiritual fulfillment was palpable. The day had been challenging, both physically and emotionally, but the reward was beyond anything we could have imagined. We rested that night with a deep sense of peace, knowing that we had experienced something truly extraordinary—a closer encounter with the divine at Mount Kailash.
**DAY 13: (21 JUNE FRIDAY) KAILASH TREK – DAY TWO, TREK TO ZUTUL PUK (18,600 ft) **
Day 13 marked the most challenging and intense segment of our pilgrimage—the trek over the formidable Dolma-La pass at an altitude of 5,700 meters. This day was not just a physical test of endurance but also a profound spiritual journey that would push us to our limits and, in doing so, bring us closer to the divine energy of Mount Kailash.
We started early, the morning air crisp and thin as we ascended towards Dolma-La, the highest point of our trek. The path was steep and rugged, and the altitude made every breath an effort. The air grew colder as we climbed, with the landscape becoming more desolate and otherworldly. The sheer scale of the mountains around us was awe-inspiring, reminding us of the sacred nature of our journey.
As we approached the pass, the incline became steeper, and the trail more treacherous. Each step required focus and determination. The sight of prayer flags fluttering at the summit of Dolma-La spurred us on, a beacon of hope in the thin mountain air. The spiritual significance of this pass weighed heavily on our minds; it represents the point of rebirth, where one sheds the past and emerges renewed.
Reaching the summit of Dolma-La was a moment of both triumph and deep spiritual significance. The wind howled around us, carrying with it the prayers and hopes of countless pilgrims who had walked this path before us. At the top, we paused to take in the incredible views and to offer our own prayers. The sight of Gaurikunda, the sacred lake just below the pass, added to the spiritual weight of the moment. The lake, shimmering like a jewel, is said to be the place where Goddess Parvati took a ritual bath, and its waters are believed to hold great purifying power.
The descent from Dolma-La was steep and challenging, testing our endurance and resolve. The path was rocky and slippery, and the thin air made the descent particularly exhausting. Despite the physical strain, the spiritual energy of the place kept us going. The knowledge that we were walking in the footsteps of countless pilgrims who had made this journey before us filled us with a sense of purpose and connection.
As we descended, the landscape began to change, gradually becoming less harsh and more hospitable. By the time we reached the valley floor, the relief was palpable. The path leveled out, and the sense of struggle began to fade, replaced by a deep sense of accomplishment.
Our journey continued towards Zutulpuk Monastery, nestled at an altitude of 4,850 meters. This monastery holds great spiritual significance as the place where the revered Tibetan saint, Milarepa, is said to have meditated and achieved enlightenment. The atmosphere around the monastery was serene and deeply spiritual, a stark contrast to the harsh environment of Dolma-La.
Arriving at Zutulpuk was a deeply moving experience. The sense of peace and sanctity that pervaded the monastery was palpable, and the knowledge that we were in a place where Milarepa had meditated added a profound dimension to our pilgrimage. The monastery itself, with its simple, unadorned walls, seemed to echo with the chants and prayers of centuries past.
We spent the evening at Zutulpuk in quiet reflection, surrounded by the mountains that had tested us so thoroughly throughout the day. The hardships of the trek seemed to fade away, replaced by a deep sense of spiritual fulfillment and connection. As we rested that night, the journey we had undertaken felt more meaningful than ever. We had not only crossed a physical mountain pass but had also touched something sacred and eternal. The experiences of the day had etched themselves into our souls, leaving us forever changed by the powerful energy of Mount Kailash.
**DAY 14: (22 JUNE SATURDAY) TREK LAST DAY – TREK TO THE END OF THE VALLEY AND DRIVE BACK TO SAGA**
Day 14 marked the conclusion of our unforgettable trek around Mount Kailash, a journey that had tested our physical endurance, deepened our spiritual understanding, and brought us closer to the sacred energy of this holy mountain. The final leg of our trek was a gentle downhill walk, but it was no less significant than the challenges we had faced earlier.
We began the day with a sense of both fulfillment and quiet reflection. The early morning light bathed the landscape in a soft glow, casting long shadows over the valley as we descended from Zutulpuk Monastery. The air was crisp and clear, and there was a feeling of calm that seemed to settle over the entire group. After the grueling ascents and descents of the previous days, the gentler terrain was a welcome change, allowing us to fully absorb the beauty of our surroundings.
As we walked through the valley, the mountains gradually receded into the distance, their towering peaks now familiar companions. The trail led us through a landscape that was both barren and beautiful, with the vast Barkha plain stretching out before us. This plain, with its wide-open spaces and sweeping views, felt like a place of transition—a space where we could reflect on the incredible journey we had just undertaken.
The walk was peaceful, the rhythm of our footsteps providing a meditative backdrop to our thoughts. There was a sense of closure in the air, a quiet acknowledgment that we had come full circle, both literally and spiritually. We reached the hotel at 9:30am. Had a delicious breakfast, took a quick shower (since we hadn’t bathed in days) and got ready to leave for Saga.
As we loaded into the buses and began the drive back to Saga, a 10-hour journey, the mood in the group was reflective. The return journey took us back through the Tibetan plateau, the landscape passing by in a blur of memories. Each of us was lost in our thoughts, replaying the moments of the trek in our minds—the awe-inspiring views, the challenges we had overcome, the deep spiritual encounters, and the camaraderie that had developed among us.
The vast plains and distant mountains held a new meaning, imbued with the spiritual energy of Mount Kailash.
Arriving in Saga, there was a sense of completion. The town, which had been a starting point for this incredible adventure, now felt like a place of return—a place where we could rest and process the profound experiences we had shared. That evening, as we settled into our accommodations, the conversations at dinner were naturally turned to the trek, with each person sharing their personal reflections and insights.
The final day of our trek may have been gentle in terms of physical exertion, but it was rich with emotion and meaning. The journey around Mount Kailash had been more than just a physical challenge; it had been a pilgrimage of the soul.
**DAY 15: (23 JUNE SUNDAY) DRIVE BACK FROM SAGA TO KERUNG**
On the morning of Day 15, we began our journey back to Kerung, marking the start of our return to the world we had left behind when we first embarked on this pilgrimage.
The mountains that had seemed so imposing at the start of our journey now felt like old friends, their familiar peaks guiding us as we made our way back. The road wound its way through vast, open plains, with the towering Himalayas ever-present on the horizon, their snow-capped summits glowing in the morning light.
As we approached Kerung, the landscape began to change once again, with the barren plains giving way to more verdant hills and valleys. The town of Kerung, nestled in the mountains near the border with Nepal, felt like a gateway between two worlds—the rugged, spiritual landscape of Tibet and the lush, vibrant terrain of the Himalayas.
As we rested that night in Kerung, there was a deep sense of gratitude for the journey we had undertaken. The drive from Saga to Kerung had not only brought us closer to the end of our pilgrimage but had also given us the time and space to reflect on the incredible beauty and spiritual significance of the region. The memories of the stunning landscapes, the sacred sites, and the profound connections we had made would remain with us, a source of inspiration and peace long after we returned home.
**DAY 16: (24 JUNE MONDAY) DRIVE BACK TO KATHMANDU**
Day 16 marked the final leg of our extraordinary pilgrimage, as we embarked on the drive back to Kathmandu. The journey from Kerung to Kathmandu was filled with a mix of emotions—relief at the thought of returning to familiar surroundings, sadness at leaving behind the sacred landscapes, and a deep sense of fulfillment from the spiritual insights we had gained during our yatra.
We crossed the Chinese border, which didn’t take long at all, compared to when we had arrived. We crossed the Friendship bridge, and back into Nepal after immigration procedures. We had a nice, appetizing lunch as our clocks jumped and hour ahead and then got into our Jeeps (10 in total) that would drive us back to Kathmandu. The landscape had shifted once again, with the stark, rugged beauty of the Tibetan plateau giving way to the vibrant, verdant scenery of Nepal. The air was warmer and more humid, a reminder that we were gradually descending from the high altitudes we had grown accustomed to. The towering peaks of the Himalayas, which had been our constant companions throughout the journey, now appeared more distant, fading into the background as we made our way towards Kathmandu.
The road back to Kathmandu was a winding one, passing through small villages and towns nestled in the foothills of the Himalayas. The hustle and bustle of everyday life in these communities stood in stark contrast to the serene and sacred spaces we had visited during our pilgrimage. Yet, there was a beauty in this contrast, a reminder of the interconnectedness of all aspects of life—both the mundane and the spiritual.
As we descended further into the Kathmandu Valley, the familiar sights and sounds of the city began to reappear. The traffic became heavier, and the noise of urban life grew louder, signaling our return to the world we had left behind. But even as we approached the city, there was a sense of peace and calm that lingered within us, a gift from the sacred journey we had completed.
Arriving in Kathmandu, we were welcomed by the vibrant energy of the city. The streets were alive with people, colors, and sounds, a stark contrast to the quiet, reflective days of our trek. Yet, despite the return to the busyness of life, there was a noticeable difference in each of us. The yatra had left an indelible mark on our souls, and we found ourselves moving through the city with a renewed sense of purpose and understanding.
That evening, as we gathered for one final meal together, there was a palpable sense of gratitude and camaraderie. The journey had forged deep bonds between us, bonds that were strengthened by the shared experiences and spiritual insights we had gained along the way. We spoke of the moments that had touched us the most, the lessons we had learned, and the ways in which the yatra had transformed us. There was an unspoken understanding that we had all been changed, that the journey to Mount Kailash had opened our hearts and minds to new possibilities and deeper connections.
**DAY 17: (25 JUNE TUESDAY) TRANSFER TO THE AIRPORT FOR FINAL DEPARTURE**
As I departed from Kathmandu, I felt a profound sense of transformation. The yatra to Mount Kailash had not only tested my physical limits but also deepened my spiritual understanding.
Returning from Mount Kailash, I found myself contemplating renunciation. The spiritual awakening, perspective shift, and connection with nature experienced during the yatra were transformative. The peace and solitude I felt contrasted sharply with the hustle and bustle of daily life, prompting a desire to simplify and seek a more meaningful existence.
In the days and weeks that followed, I would come to realize just how much the yatra had changed me. The memories of the sacred mountains, the holy rituals, and the profound spiritual encounters would remain with me, a source of strength and wisdom as I navigate the challenges of everyday life. The journey to Mount Kailash had been a pilgrimage of the soul, and its impact would be felt long after I had returned to the bustling streets of NY.
I encourage everyone to embark on such a yatra. The pilgrimage is not just a physical trek but a spiritual inner journey that can lead to profound personal transformation. Whether you seek spiritual growth, a deeper connection with nature, or a new perspective on life, this journey offers an unparalleled opportunity for inner exploration.
The experiences and insights gained have left an indelible mark on my soul, inspiring me to live a life of greater purpose and spiritual awareness. I hope my story inspires others to undertake their own journeys of self-discovery and spiritual awakening.
