My Journey to Aconcagua: Krishna

​​Table of Contents 

​Prologue: Training 2 

​January 26^th & 27^th 2023: To Mendoza, Argentina 3 

​January 28^th 2023: Visit to Terrazas Vineyards 4 

​January 29^th 2023: Off to Penitentes 5 

​January 31^st 2023: Confluencia to Plaza De Mulas – Base Camp (14058ft) 6 

​February 1^st – February 4^th 2023: Plaza De Mulas to Plaza Canada (16203ft) 7 

​February 2^nd 2023: Roundtrip to Plaza Canda 7 

​February 3^rd 2023: Rest Day 8 

​February 4^th 2023: Moving Day to Plaza Canada 8 

​February 5^th 2023: Off to Camp 2 – Nido de Condores (17325ft) 9 

​February 6^th 2023: Chillax at Camp 2 9 

​February 7^th 2023: Pen-Ultimate destination – Camp Colera (20000ft) 10 

​February 8^th 2023: Summit Day (Supposedly) 11 

​February 9^th 2023: Going Home 11 

​February 10^th 2023: Keertu’s Birthday 12 

​February 11^th 2023: Temple Visit (Supposedly) 12 

​February 16^th 2023: Ekadashi 12 

​Epilogue: In retrospect 12​ 

Aconcagua: A personal journey 

1. Prologue: Training 

My aspiration to attempt, to summit Aconcagua was seeded right after Kilimanjaro trip. The latter made me fully aware of my pulmonary deficiencies to summit and I beat myself up, had I adopted proper breathing practices, the journey would’ve been that much better. As a first step I got my lung capacity tested and results were let’s just say subpar compared to healthy human lungs. Sad part is, my juvenile asthma had slowly eaten away half my lungs, but on the bright side I knew I had my work cut out. Around this time I met with Satish, with whom I had summit Mt. Elbert. We met at Brick House Tavern in Edison, while he wasn’t sure yet about making the trip yet, I mentioned I need to take this a lot more seriously than Kilimanjaro. 

I decided to take up on some breathing exercises Anulom/Vilom and Simha Kriya. Later on, got introduced to Art of Living style’s Ujjayi & Bastrika. I found Bastrika more efficient, while Ujjayi calms the mind and body. However, I found the most efficient way to improve lung strength was after I started using AirPhysio, a breath pump that induces positive compression when exhaling there by opening up congested air channels. I joined WCC and started going to Yoga, body pump and body combat workout sessions. Things were coming together and I could feel getting spry with my joints. However, when we started practicing at Cushetunk carrying 20-25lbs backpack, I was quickly out of breath which was worrisome. I could hear my body screaming out loud for more oxygenation.  

I am aware of the benefits of beetroot juice and I was taking it, on and off along with Moringa leaves and ginger, but hadn’t combined it with my exercise routines. It was time to put the theory to test. I could feel my hiking days were better when I had the juice compared to days when I didn’t. Finally all pieces of fitness were coming together and I could feel it in me, as I was getting better physically. I had to put myself to more rigor than my attempt to summit Kilimanjaro. The mental aspect of climb was clear and I was resolute to put my best foot forward. 

Alongside, the team was getting prepared with essential gear and there was lot of chatter to equip everything from Toe Gel Gaps to arctic temperature grade sleeping bags. I bought everything listed on the Aconomura’s suggested gear and those posted on group chats. I ran store to store from REI, EMS, Dick’s Sports to Campmor and shopping for deals on GearTrade, Poshmark and Amazon. I had burnt a fat hole in my wallet and I was bleeding my bank account to gear up head to toe. 

We had a dry run to check our winter gear and camped out in ADK and did small hikes at lean-to Loj campsite near Lake Placid. Coincidentally, it was Collegiate winter Olympics week and the town was buzzing with kids from all over the world, music bands performing, people dancing on streets, and was very festive. On the second morning Radhika and I decided to drive back home while the rest tested their mountain boots with crampons. With gear checked out it, the mantra was to pack and organize efficiently so that you don’t end up rummaging bags night after night on the mountain, especially after cozying into tent from a hard day hike.  

I had ordered a 75L and a 85L backpack, 90L and 150L duffel bags for packing. The seller had posted wrong dimensions, the 75L turned out to be just 45L for which I got full refund and GearTrade asked me to keep the bag for myself.  Finally came the day of team gear check, everything fell into place and I was now certified ready for the for the Aconcaguan task 🙂 

2. January 26^th & 27^th 2023: To Mendoza, Argentina 

All packed and ready to go, Radhika had already booked for 2 cars for airport ride to JFK. We were going to meet at Menlo Park mall and ride together. Priya dropped me off at our meeting point. But prior to that went to Best Buy and got myself a cellphone tripod (which I never used it during the trip, SMH). Next stop was Shiva-Vishnu temple at Oak Tree Rd. For some reason I was on edge, butterflies in my underbelly, apprehensive about the task at hand! I felt at ease as soon as I stepped into the temple, I suppose the calming nature and energy presence settled me down. Especially, Anjaneyar was decorated in Vennai-Kappu (coated in butter). I just couldn’t believe my eyes, I cannot recall the last time I saw him in that auspicious alangaram at a temple. I took it as some kind cosmic signal that the journey is going to be alright and said to myself to not do anything stupid to jeapordize safe return back home. Left the temple feeling at ease, Satish joined us and we all rode to JFK. The rest of team had already settled in AirIndia Lounge and we joined them to relish on snacks and chat.  

All 14 of us: Usha A, Krishna B, Harsha D, Harshal H, Vivek J,  Ashok K, Padmaja K, Satish K, Nilima P, Shanti, Paresh & Parul Patel, Radhika R, and Vineet S, eyes brimming with dreams to summit embarked on an ambitious expedition. 

The flight was pleasant roughly 9-10 hours to Santiago, Chile and from there a 45 min hop to Mendoza. At baggage claim I found out that my Orange hardcase luggage was damaged in transit. Sought a LATAM rep, who helped me submit a claim and a refund for $120 (almost thrice the value paid for it) was issued. We were greeted by Nicholas and his team, and they came in 2 vans, one for us to ride and the other to carry our bags. We checked into NH Mendoza hotel, Satish and I shared room 109. We settled in and made ourselves comfortable. 

Later that afternoon Marcos and Andres, couple of our guides stopped by for gear check. Although I had everything in place, Andres suggested that I rent Waterproof/fleece insulated outer shell pants but Marcos the chief guide gave a thumbs up for my outer shell. 

We walked around the streets of Mendoza, the neighbourhood had several parks. Right across from the hotel was San Martin park named after the decorated General who liberated Argentina, Peru and Chile from the Spanish. We went to an Indian restaurant Mumbai Masala, but the food was not that good, I could cook a lot better. However can’t complain, who would’ve thought of finding an Indian restaurant in Mendoza. 

For dinner, we went to a Pizza place called Los Inmigrantes, Coke was absolutely disgusting but Fanta was good, however the highlight was Pizza. It was really really good, though we ordered some empanadas too. It was challenge to communicate even with Google translator, somehow managed the conversations between translator and playing dumb charades at times 🙂 Sated full, it was time to call it a night.  

Upon return, Satish ran into this guy Paul, who shared his grievances about his team’s hiking ordeal on the mountain. He was evac’d for cerebral edema at Camp3 for being incoherant in speech and wobbly walking around the camp. Two of his team mates are in hospital, one of them is in coma due to a skull fracture and the other one’s leg had to be amputated. Blood drained from my head to toes. I really felt the spine chilling eeriness. The news was very unsettling but we had to regain composure for we knew the mountain is an unforgiving place and each climber has to be absolutely calm, collected and focused every moment and every step. Shared the story with team just as a caution. 

1. January 28^th 2023: Visit to Terrazas Vineyards 

City tour and visit to Wine Country was today’s agenda. Vrajesh P had missed his flight and joined us. 

Satish went to shower first, a few minutes later gave out loud shriek and I heard a thud. He had slipped in the bath tub and fell on his left side. Poor guy was wheezing and writhing in pain. Fortunately we had a doctor, a fellow hiker Padmaja Kodali, who mentioned nothing can be done about it now, even if it was a hairline fracture. Satish decided to push along to continue with the hike, absolutely commendable of him. I wanted him to come along as well and not quit before we even took our first step! 

The group did some last minute shopping for upcoming hiking days. I got toe gel caps from a near by pharmacy, Padmaja accompanied me to get pain relief packs for Satish. Also at a nearby outdoor store we exchanged dollars for pesos at $1 = 380P, good rate! 

While waiting in the lobby, Nilima politely pointed out that I had been in same clothes since we left NYC 🙂 I had packed bare minimum change of clothes. Ishmael accompanied us, we went to Parque San Martin, that had a man made lake and Fountain of the Continents. Somebody got chocolate crepes, yummy! Next we went to Gloria Mountain to check out War Memorial for San Martin and Army of the Andes. The sculpture is an allegory featuring an Angel breaking away in chains representing liberation from Spanish forces. On the sides of pedestal, story inscribed on how General Martin amassed troops, locals forging cannons, seamstresses making uniforms and common folk coming together for greater cause. 

Every first Saturday of March locals, Argentinians and people from all over the world gather on these mountains for music, food, dance to celebrate Harvest festival. Thousands throng the hillsides to see performances at the Greek Amphitheater. Spent sometime and continued on an hour or so long drive to a restaurant, Casona Perdriel. Food was absolutely delicious served with Malbec local wine. To finish it, served with chocolate pudding and flan!!! 

On the way out, tasted green and red grapes straight from the vines, very bitter I suppose didn’t pick the right ones or that’s how they’re supposed to taste. Pack got into van and we drove to Terrazas winery, which was very close by. The place is owned by LVMH billionaire Bernard Arnault.  

Wine tasting 101: How to smell, swirl, hold the glass by it’s neck, to cleanse palette while infusing with mouth breathing to enhance taste and senses. I knew the nuances and Paresh was sharing his knowledge of the craft, but it was all too complicated, not for me. We then went down to see storage VATs, the place had masonic symbols inscribed on the walls! Checked their Red and White wine cellars, each with their distinctive aroma. The tour ended on a lighter note when Usha bought a bottle of wine for her husband, guys started egging her to get more expensive one and then one with a case, each time making her take a trip to the gift shop 🙂  

We went to the same Pizza place. I wanted to check out some other eatery but the larger group decided to go there again. We got the attention of other patrons with a group of 15 strong and playing Hindi songs aloud.  

We ordered more pies than we could eat, gave left overs to a lady with on infant on street side. Split in groups to return to hotel, some of us went to an Ice Cream place where I dropped my Nalgene, and the bottom just broke off clean, like it was cut. 

1. January 29^th 2023: Off to Penitentes 

Discarded my broken Orange hardcase and packed all my soft gear in duffel bag, while my foot gear shoes, crampons, micro spikes and gaiters in Samsonite hardcase. Recall Paresh & Parul commenting on the model/style of my case, they had a Samsonite too. They used to own a business selling home appliances and accessories. Now they own liquor stores, happily retired and living life! 

From the looks of it, we had way too many bags for a hiking trip to summit one of the toughest mountains on the planet. Marcos, Andres and another guide Edwardo joined us. We drove for about 3-4 hours to reach Penitentes. We took a break halfway at a service stop for some refreshments. The drive was slow and on either side of road it was endless dry arid Andean landscape. Although we did see a lake area flooded with people along the way.  

With 3 apartments for lodging, I left my bag where Satish, Vrajesh, Paresh & Parul shared. The girls checked into apartment right next door and the rest of the boys upstairs on 3^rd floor. I opted to take a room above the restaurant, had it all to myself and the bathrooms downstairs were much bigger than the ones in the apartment. Lunch and dinner was served, the dining area had handwritten notes on paper plastered on the wall by many from various countries along with their respective flags. Unfortunately I did not see a representation from India and we didn’t leave a mark either. Still bothers me, I should’ve at least made an effort to color our flag on a piece of paper and posted on the wall. 

From here on, it’s just my 45L daypack and the duffel bag. I repacked accordingly and was ready to take on the next 10 days of arduous hike of my life! 

January 30^th 2023: First Day of Hike, Harcones to Confluencia (10890ft) 

We met in the open are in front of the apartment building for breathing exercises and some stretches. After taking care of morning hygiene met for breakfast, coffee and tea. Stuffed ourselves with as much food. First a batch of 8 left to Harcones – place where the hike starts to Confluencia. We all met there took the ceremonial pics and start on our epic adventure! The sun was already roasting the land below at 10-11 AM. 

I took a moment to position myself, recited all my slogams, unknowingly I felt a surge of energy boosting up, I knew right then the moment was right to start off. It felt like at times when you’re at the temple and you realize that moment when you feel an absolute calm and feel totally attune with yourself… 

I was at the end of the line, along with Satish and Vivek. As per itinerary this was supposed to be a 4 hour 8K hike. Marcos timed it such that we take a water break at 30 minute intervals and a longer snack/meal break at hour intervals. With the Sun beaming at 90F, it didn’t take us long to be shriveled like prunes sapped out of energy. 

I had beetroot powder which had additional minerals packed into it. This was my go to supplement for all my hikes there on. I could really feel my energies elevated, Andres made fun of me that I seem to be excited about the hike. I thought to myself, the higher elevations and cold temperature are sure to dampen the flow of Chi! 😉 

We must’ve reached around 3pm or so and we had a reception to mark our first successful hike! Fruits, juices, lunch and goodies. We all were accommodated in a large Dome shaped tent, the inside of which was like runaway sauna. With belly full, I couldn’t bear the heat inside and arranged stones and my backpack into a seating arrangement and settled outside the tent. Some sat at the entrance step of the tent and slowly one by one others joined next to me. Whenever at rest I made it a habit to do deep belly expansion and then chest expansion breathing to increase my blood oxygen saturation. 

Our sleeping bags and 650 down jackets were delivered as it can get cold in the nights. 

Next day post breakfast we assembled for medical check up before leaving for Base Camp. While waiting I did my deep breathing, first belly full and then lungs. There were 2 young doctors checking vitals and I was given thumbs up and ready to continue my journey. 

Ironically the man who insisted us to compartmentalize and pack essentials, to be organized; forgot to bring his diabetes medication. He was asked to stay back until medication was flown to base camp via chopper. I heared Marcos saying, “Without medicines you’re not leaving the park”. Unfortunately this can happen to best of us and we had to leave Vivek behind. 

2. January 31^st 2023: Confluencia to Plaza De Mulas – Base Camp (14058ft) 

Today is going to be long, hard and brutal under hot Sun. Total distance is nearly 10M/17K and about 8-10 hours. I did my ritual before the hike to calm myself, recited my slogams and was all ready for the day. Packed nearly 4 liters of water with beetroot powder, food and snacks. Right off the back we climbed at least a 1000ft elevation. A couple of girls already started throwing up within an hour of hike. We knew it is going test boundaries for of all of us. 

After the initial climb the landscape was flat as a slice of bread, but I could the distinct shape of the valley as if it was carved by ebb and flow of flowing glaciers. Eons ago this area must’ve been buried under think slabs of Ice. Glacier water was flowing in streams across the valley but there was not much life around. Some bushes here and there other than that it was pretty much barren. Satish and Shanti slowly fell behind and I was trying to keep in between the leading pack and the tail. 

In the distance, I could see the leading pack settling for lunch I tried to catch up. I could see they were on the right side of the river and I followed them. Edwardo was accompanying Satish and Shanti, they were perhaps 10 mins behind me. At one point I turned back to check on them and I could see Edwardo breaking away walking towards me. Immediately I sensed that I am on the wrong side of the river and straddled across and reached him when he mentioned to stay on inside of the river. The other two joined us and we continued to meet with the rest. 

Edwardo and I set out at a faster pace to find a right place to cross the river as we got close the group. To our dismay there was no easy access to cross the river/stream. We walked back and forth, by now the group had finished their lunch break and left. We were still having tough time finding a spot. Satish finally found a good enough spot, Edwardo tried to help Shanti and I to get across. With much effort, feet and legs fully wet we managed to get across. By now we were at least 30-45 minutes behind the  rest of the group.   

Finished our lunch and snacks and continued along. I refilled my bottle with water from Hydration bladder, when it occurred that I should’ve brought the drinking tube as well. I left it behind thinking it’ll freeze at higher elevations, without giving a thought it’s usefulness in the lower hot arid regions. How silly of me… 

We saw signs Plaza De Mulas is another 4 hours from the place we had lunch. Somewhere in the distance we heard someone screaming, we could tell it was a cry out for help but we couldn’t see who it was. A few minutes later we heard the screams again, Edwardo asked us to wait while he went to seek out them asking for help. Incidentally it turned out to be a couple from our group who strayed from the rest of flock. PHEW!  The final climb towards base camp was very hard and we reached destination around 6pm. 

This base camp is supposedly the second largest next only to Everest Base Camp. 

1. February 1^st – February 4^th 2023: Plaza De Mulas to Plaza Canada (16203ft) 

1^st was rest day after the rigorous 17K hike. I did not mix beetroot powder to water, and as the day progressed I could feel the stress in breathing walking up and down from my tent to dining or bathroom facilities. 

Satish and I shared tent with Chilean trio and an Aussie Terry. I noticed the Chileans were always in a Parka even inside the tent. We made friends with Terry chatting about climbing experiences. He had come by himself and was sharing his ordeal of carrying all his gear unlike us who took the easy way of hiring porters. He was going to acclimatize by doing hikes around base camp. While we rested he hike up and down Mt Bonete. Had we followed the recommended itinerary we would be doing the same on 1^st Feb and on 2^nd we it would be hike close to The Harcones glacier to test out crampons. However, we were gunning straight to Summit, or so we thought 😉 

Base Camp had good bathroom and shower amenities. Martin was in-charge for shower. Terry had mentioned that it was $10/shower and said he was not going to pay for such an expense. However, Satish went and negotiated for $20/shower 🙂 We all showered, and Satish and I along with Usha, Padmaja, Paresh & Parul went to cafe adjacent to our tent. $5 for a nice Cappucino, that ruined my sleep that night. I couldn’t fall asleep until 2 or 3AM. Tried Ujjayi several times but in vain. Also the fact I haven’t had coffee in over a couple of years didn’t help. 

Some of the guys took Diamox, the girls were on it from Confluencia itself. I did not take it, was terrified of the fact that one needs to drink 4-5 liters of water a day to stay hydrated in that dry arid environment. All the boys had a terrible night of not able to sleep and going for bathroom breaks three or more times. So they all collectively decided to not take Diamox anymore next day onwards. 

1. February 2^nd 2023: Roundtrip to Plaza Canda 

After eggs, fruits and tea for breakfast we all lined up for trip to Camp 1 – Plaza Canada and back to base camp. Shanti mentioned that her heart rate is above 170, which is rather high even before starting to hike. Less than an hour into hike she backed out and returned to Base Camp. Edwardo accompanied her and hiked up to Camp 1 by the time we reached there. It is inhuman the speed at which these guys can go up and down. 

We were asked to carry 5kg or roughly 10-11lbs of food to be left behind at Camp 1. I carried some of my personal stuff but did not carry any food. The hike up was tough, I noticed that each leg of the hike got tougher than the one before. The Trail was switchback all the way to top. Closer to reaching Camp 1 the slope gradient got steeper and the last 30-45 mins was very tough. I recall Andres telling me from here on Camp 1 – very tough, 2 – very very tough, 3 – very very very tough and subsequently Sumit very very very very tough 🙂 In his own manner of speak. 

We hiked admiring the vistas and beautiful Harcones Glacier. Base camp was slowly disappering from our sight. We were reaching new heights and I myself felt a lot better than how I was doing at current altitudes on Kilimanjaro. Took it with in good strides and spirits, past 3 months of breathing and physical workouts helped! 

While most of us were well, some members noticed Harshal acting out odd. Apparently he was hallucinating. You never know HA sickness hits you, or so we were told. Upon reaching Camp 1 he was examined by medics and results were not in his favor. He was tied with a rope to his back and Andres/Edwardo held him to ensure he does not roll off the cliff accompanied along with medical staff. The down hike was more tough to tread on scree and we had to slide and find foothold which was quite a work out on the knees, especially when it takes more than 2 hours to come down. 

We all managed the acclimatization exercise pretty well. Unfortunately it was hard to see Shanti and Harshal return back to Penitentes. They took chopper back down. Considering the state of all at various degrees of tiresome, exhaustion, Marcos called the next day off and we were going to use up one of our backup days to rest and regain composure. 

1. February 3^rd 2023: Rest Day 

We just hung around base camp, went to cafe. I was thinking of using the tripod one of the nights to capture the night sky, it was absolutely breathtaking. I could see the MilkyWay so bright in the night and band of stars that form the Orion arm in our part of the sky. Day of rest much need for us continue on our pursuit! 

2. February 4^th 2023: Moving Day to Plaza Canada 

Porters carried our duffel bags, there was still food to be carried. Also from here on all of us have to be on Mountain boots. We all decided to pack our regular hiking shoes as well as it will be easier to hike down using them from Camp 3 after Summit experience. 

While the rest had 4-5 lbs, I had to carry 15lbs. I was able to stuff less than half of it in the duffel bag, remaining food and personal items ended up heavy to as much as nearly 18-20lbs. I knew I was in trouble, and it was evident as soon as we started the hike. I did my pre-hike ritual to recite slogams and started to hike, I was completely out of breath pretty soon, I let the entire pack move while I relaxed to breathe better and started walking slowly to warm up. 

I regulated my breathing, to coordinate better with my footing and sooner than later I was on stride along with rest. At first pit stop, Marcos seggregated us into 3 groups and I ended up in the middle group. He gave a tongue lashing to Padmaja, “Use your frigging poles, you were about to slip and fall”. We could tell he was pissed, he also warned Vivek to use Sunglasses for the Sun’s intensity can make one go partially blind and will have to be evacuated.  

Slow and steady we all reached Plaza Canada and settled into our tents. 

Soon after, we were caught in a snow storm that lasted for more than an hour. From here on no gourmet food from Matthias, no bathroom amenities, no fruits, no hot soup. We were out free, to live the animal life but give plastic bags to relieve ourselves 🙂 

1. February 5^th 2023: Off to Camp 2 – Nido de Condores (17325ft) 

I can’t recall if I had anything to eat for dinner prior night, but drained and exhausted slept well to wake up to a new morning. 

Took me a couple of tries to get used to defecating into a plastic bag, but had to get the hang of it for there’s no other way out 😉 Pun intended 😀 

We had to get going, once again pack up your stuff, duffel and all. Same routine, porters left and then after we got going. Did my ritual, but could feel the energy dissipating it was the not the same as how I felt the first time. Still I focused at task on hand to calm my nerves, continue reciting slogams and prevailed on… 

After another 5-6 hour hike reached Camp 2! 

2. February 6^th 2023: Chillax at Camp 2 

We could barely see the Summit under a veil of clouds. Later that day the cloud cover moved revealing the Summit! Little that we knew that was the best view we shall ever see of it! 

Radhika & Nilima were already pretty drained out, adding to misery was the unhygienic practices to accustom to. 

Marcos had called us for medical checkup. I got checked first and given the okay. With blood O2 saturation at 82, I was in good shape. 

Parul was advised to leave the Camp effective immediately, and Radhika & Nilima decided to call quits. While the latter two started to hike down, Parul opted to pay for an chopper ride. Lucha one the guides who joined us at Camp 1 accompanied the 2 girls. He gave a shout before leaving, “Last call to whomever wants to join”. The rest of the gang was pretty convinced that we’ll reach Summit, or so we believed ourselves. 

Some of the team went to get water from across the ridge from camp site. The team was just taking it easy, we were down to 10 as a group now. I was sitting outside my tent and engaged in a casual tete-a-tete with our fellow aussie Terry. He was playing with his gadget, and out of the blue asked when are we attempting to Summit. I replied, 2 days from now on 8^th, for which he said the wind gusts are going to be pretty heavy that at 50K. Right then I knew if that was going to be true, I wouldn’t even attempt, but rather stay in the comfort of tent until things settle down. 

I took sometime to process that info, I recall my promise to myself that made at Anjanyar Sannidhi, “To not do anything stupid that would jeopardize my safe return back home”. Also, prior night there were 2 deaths on the mountain and we could hear choppers flying around. In my head I was positioning on the side of the mountain, pushing myself against the winds trying to make the next step. It was not pretty, and I did not want to think of the consequences should I misstep. Right next moment, I spoke to some of team members and then went to Marcos to let him know if such conditions exist I wouldn’t attempt. He tried to assuade saying, “It is walkable, just follow my footsteps”. But I was convinced with 30M/50K winds there’s no way I am risking my life and neither would he to risk the lives of the group. 

The rest of the team was concerned and called for a meeting to discuss. Vivek wanted to brush aside the forecast and stated it is Marcos’ responsibility to take us to Summit should conditions be favorable. I was not going to bet on a woulda/coulda/shoulda situation, with info I had, I made my decision and was going to stick to it. I told I am not trying to influence anyone, but aforementioned I will continue to Camp 3 and we ended the discussion there. 

Funny that Vivek, mentioned I know you pray, pray that we can summit 🙂 To which I responded, that’s not how it works, I pray but don’t ask for anything in return! But I could hear the sentiment behind that statement, there was apprehension and we could only turn to GODS to help us out, I suppose. 

I documented my decision to not summit in a video right after, for some reason it just didn’t feel right. It was that moment I felt like a cosmic signal was ringing loud in my head and decided to heed to it! 

3. February 7^th 2023: Pen-Ultimate destination – Camp Colera (20000ft) 

I started the hike with my ritual, but this it was very obvious I just didn’t feel the same excitement like before. My energy was still on the mark to continue with the journey. This time we had to wear Crampons as well. 

Some had hard time putting them on and needed assistance from the guides. All geared up, the team once again lined up and ascended to journey on to Camp Colera. Satish, was trying to push himself to be part of the lead pack. I didn’t bother, I was at ease and hiked at comfortable pace. Though I started last in the group of 10, I caught up with Vrajesh who was struggling and later on with Usha. I offered to stay with Usha who was hiking alone, but she turned down saying she’s taking it slow and that I should continue on. Anyways, Andres was sweeping the group and assisting them. Soon, I caught up with Satish and Luciano (Lucha). 

Lucha, made a snide remark stating Summit is for Olympic level athletes and not for our group. I wanted to smack him but then, I heard the humor in it and we laughed at it on a lighter vein. It was partially true though, mostly all of us were struggling, huffing and puffing to make it to the next destination. 

We continued on, soon it started snowing and visibility was shrinking. The trail was pretty narrow and on the left side a steep sloping drop to what looked like abyss. That did not waver, I continued my belly breathing and marched on. 

About 5 hours later reached Camp 3 and give shout out loud, that I am can made to top with Grivel on for 5 hours. Marcos sarcastically replied it could’ve been worse 🙂 

Settled into my tent and zonked off right away. Didn’t have dinner, my tummy was still upset after eating horsegram 2 days before at Camp 2. 

4. February 8^th 2023: Summit Day (Supposedly) 

Early in the morning, I heard footsteps around our tent and people from our group talking. I was half asleep, but awake enough to know that the rest of the team was attempting summit. Satish was deep asleep and snoring loudly 😉 I knew Usha and Vrajesh stayed back as well. I rolled aside and went back to sleep. 

It was probably 7AM or so when I woke up. I went out, brushed teeth and was taking pictures and video. Stopped by kitchen to chat with Marcos, he introduced me to his childhood friend Leo (pronounced Lay-O). I asked what happened to summit attempt, for which he replied it was too windy and that the team had to be brought back. 

Leo, snided you guys chose climbers month to summit. I did not respond, I had no info at disposal to defend our position. I brushed that comment and asked Marcos, can we stay one more day at Camp 3 and attempt Summit. He responded was had used up our 14+2 days and have to return back to Plaza de Mulas. Oh well, that’s how sad the expedition had to end. The Summit was barely a mile and half away and we couldn’t summit, since we ran out of our stipulated expedition days. 

No regrets, had a fantastic time. My preparation on point, no breathing issues, I was healthy, energetic and in good morale. It was just that the time had elapsed for us to Summit. 

Packed duffel, filled water bottles and sashayed down base camp, a 7 hour descent. 

Went to meet up with Rosario, she was in charge of helicopter shuttle from Plaza de Mulas to Penitentes. The cost for ride is $1620 that can be shared between 2 people and total weight cannot exceed 200kgs. Satish and I were going to share a ride, pretty soon every one was on board. 

1. February 9^th 2023: Going Home 

Mohan (Nilima’s husband) wire transferred payment for the 2 of us. We took our bags and went to a tent at the starting of base camp. Rosario met us there and Matthias helped us all with bags. Had tea and cookies while waiting. Satish and I were the first to take the chopper ride.  

The ride was icing on the cake, breathtaking! Pilot was Checo, quite friendle and chatty. We saw hikers down below walking from Confluencia to Plaza de Mulas, mules with bags on their backs running, streams of muddied glacial water flowing across the dry sand beds, cliffs on both sides rising to the skies. It was a short 8 minute ride and we landed in Harcones. Waited for 2 more chopper rides to bring people, got our passports checked and we were off to Penitentes. 

Had breakfast eggs, tea and refreshments. Did repack, shuffling items between duffel bag and suitcase and realized I was missing my Sea to Summit compression sack. It has some of my hiking clothes, some dirty clothes and my alti mitts 🙁 Showered and we were ready to go to airport. Fernando had ordered lunch, I opted chicken. It was good to have regular meal, since we didn’t have good meal from the time we reached Camp 1. 

Reached Mendoza in the afternoon and picked up Parul, who was staying at a hotel. Walked around streets for some shopping. I bought 2 T-shirts for Chaitu and Priya, and a nice woolen parka, scarf and pin for Keertu, her birthday present. Got Quinoa sandwich from subway and ate it on the ride to airport. 

Upon reaching found out LATAM had messed up by baggage fees had to pay for both my bags. All set to board flight back home. That was quite a relief! I caught up all WA messages and was chatting with kids while waiting to board the flight. 

2. February 10^th 2023: Keertu’s Birthday 

Our flight from Santiago to JFK was delayed after some mechanical problem discovered while taxi-ing.  Aircraft was brought back to gate and we all deplaned. Flight was changed to 3:45 AM, went to a lounge had some refreshments. Gate was reassigned from 7 to 9, boarded the plane and next moment I was in deep sleep. 

Woke up to see we were some where over the atlantic off the coast of Florida. Switched on TV and watched Wakanda Forever. The plot was good, I bet they will drag on more in this chain until it gets boring. 

Uber’d with Satish, he was kind enough to accompany. He didn’t have to join me, since price wise it would’ve been the same whether I went alone or we shared the cost. Appreciated the gesture. Reached home to see the garage was open, Priya was about to leave to pick up Chaitu. 

Chinnadhu was totally surprised and hugged her tight for long. She couldn’t stop giggling and screaming out surprised!!! I absorbed all that energy, happy to be back home! Funny that Chaitu said, the house was so empty without you. With no one on the couch, especially screaming during NFL games 🙂 

Later that evening went to pickup Keertu. Poor thing had food poisoning and tummy upset. She let out feeble, “What the heck”, surprised to see me. More hugs and giggles and we were happy as a unit again. 

1. February 11^th 2023: Temple Visit (Supposedly) 

Next day Priya and kids were getting ready to go to temple and asked me to join them. I told I am not yet ready and that will some other day. Ekadashi was coming up on 16^th, I will visit temple anyways. Kids made fun of me, Anjaneyar is not to be happy 🙂 

2. February 16^th 2023: Ekadashi 

Went to temple, usually around 6pm there’s a regular group of men and women who recite Vishnu Sahasranamam, I joined them and silently read along with them. Finished reciting, sat there in silence for few minutes without any thoughts and left the temple. In essence offering thanks to forces beyond our grasp that guides us at times! 

1. Epilogue: In retrospect 

The organization, planning, training and all was very helpful. It prepared some of us to rigor that we’ve never endured. However for a successful summit, having known we needed at least a couple of days more, the next group that attempts should stick the guides’ itinerary of 18+2 days. Should advance the trip sometime between mid December to mid January. We should certainly work on having one representative who can build rapport and camaraderie with the chief guide and his team for better success. Although the mountain decides we should put the best foot forward and have a better footing in relationship with guides. Hopefully future teams attempting will have better success to Summit! 

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