My Camino Portuguese story via the Appalachian Trail

I started the Appalachian Trail from bottom of the stairs at Amicalola Falls in Georgia on March 14th, 2022. After hiking about 350 miles, I fell & fractured my wrist on April 15th. I spent my last night on the AT at Curly Maple shelter in Tennessee just north of the Nolichucky River. Then I walked off the trail and got a ride to the emergency room where I was advised to get treatment from an orthopedic doc. I decided to go home for treatment. Once I had recovered, I was feeling sad about my failed attempt. Instead of feeling sorry for myself, I decided to book a flight to Lisboa Portugal to walk the easy Camino. No chance of any further injuries on that trek. It’s a long walk but I am retired and have plenty of time. So I decided to go for it before I get any older.

I wanted someone to hike with me and asked Sanjay Jain from Atlanta Desi Outdoors about it. He put me in touch Vivek Jain from New Jersey Desi Outdoors. On Vivek’s advice, I posted it on the NJ Desi Outdoors Meetup group. Instead of 1 or 2 companions, I got a gang of 7 from New Jersey to join me at Porto….about halfway into my trek. I appreciate that they placed confidence in me to do this trek.

I flew into Lisboa on Aug 21 and did some sight seeing for a few days. I started my trek(or pilgrimage) on Aug 25th. I picked up my pilgrim credential/passport at Lisboa Cathedral. The credential gives you access to pilgrim-only hostels along the way. I will get my passport stamped at cathedrals & bars along the way. Generally, the destination of the Camino is Santiago Cathedral. Once the pilgrim reaches Santiago, the passport is examined at the cathedral to determine how many total kilometers were walked. The pilgrim is then awarded a Compostela (certificate) with the distance & dates noted on it.

It was hot & I got thoroughly sunburned. I tried to learn a few Portuguese words which helped tremendously. I feel they look kindly on foreigners who attempt to communicate with them in their language. Whatever the reason, I encountered kindness everywhere. The walking days just become routine. Wake up and walk a few kilometers. Then stop for breakfast at a bakery/bar along the way. A miniature cup of café con leche along with croissant or buttered toast. A glass of fresh squeezed orange juice gives me all the energy I need. The bakeries serve wine too…hence called bars. Walking solo is actually an advantage in some ways. You seem more approachable to others. Other solo hikers are eager for company too. Finish walking by 1pm or 2pm. Then get a dormitory bunk bed and take a shower. Bathroom shared with 20 other people. Hand wash clothes worn that day in the sink & hang to dry in the warm Portuguese sunshine. Next, get something to eat at a grocery store or restaurant. Walk around town. There are usually some ruins, castle, cathedral or tombs to investigate. The locals are always happy to tell you all about the sights important to them. Go to bed early and start all over next morning.

My first stop was at a pilgrim hostel in Alpriate after a 22 km walk. The volunteer in charge of the albergue wanted to see my vaccination card. After examining it, she permitted me to enter. I was the only occupant that night because everyone else who stopped for a bed did not have a vaccination card. I had a pleasant night with the volunteer. She recommended the fresh baked bread from the man selling it out of his van. I was rapidly learning to communicate without using the English language.

Next stop Vila Franca de Xira – bull fighting town, 17.6 km. Walked along the Tejo River. I have seen a bullfight on the Camino Frances so didn’t wait around for the next bullfight. On Aug 27, I walked 19.8 km to Azambuja. It was not very pleasant & I passed some stinky industrial areas. Saw tomatoes being harvested by trucks. I stepped on & squashed a lot of tomatoes just rotting on the ground. Next day a 13 km walk into Valada. Very nice hostel & chatty Italian owner. I met a Belgian pilgrim named Inge. We got along so we walked together many days until Porto. She had hiking poles which we used to knock off ripe figs growing wild along the route. I definitely did not go hungry on this trek! On Aug 29 a pleasant 19.5 km walk into Santarem. The landscape was definitely getting nicer each day. Walked through many fruit & vegetable fields. Santarem is built on top of a hill with a beautiful historic center. The next 2 days were long walks 30.7 km to Golega & 30.2 km into the town of Tomar.

At the town of Tomar, I decided to take a day off. There is a lot of history in this town relating to the Knights of Templar. They were associated with King Arthur. There are many legends surrounding King Arthur & his knights of the round table. I took a bus to the nearby town of Fatima. The priest performing the service at Fatima was Hispanic from San Diego CA. Small world!! The only regret I have is that I forgot to get my pilgrim passport stamped at Fatima. Portugal reminded me so much of Goa. The tiled homes, names on mailboxes, Pao (name for fresh baked bread in Goa & Portugal). My father’s name, Baptista, was everywhere.

After a day of rest, I was ready to go again. On Sept 2, Inge & I walked 31.3 km to the town of Alvaiazere. The owner of the albergue, Carlos Pinheiros was very welcoming. He put a red wax seal on our passport instead of plain old ink. Then he told me about their great prime minister, Antonio Costa. Mr Costa has a Goan father & Portuguese mother. Next day, we walked 23.3 km to Alvorge.

Next day another 19.4 km into Conimbriga. Saw a little shrine dedicated to Santa Jacinta along the way. My Goan grandmother was named after this Saint. It’s the little village shrines & small chapels along the way that tug at me & fill my soul. All the big gold encrusted cathedrals don’t move me.

On Sept 5 we walked 17.5 km into Coimbra. Inge had previously reserved a bed at a hostel in town. I decided to stay at Monasterio Santa Clara-a-Nova. Queen Isabel is buried here. Shared the albergue with 2 French & 1 German pilgrim. Only the German guy spoke any English. It’s amazing the genuine camaraderie that exists between total strangers meeting on the Camino. We picked up groceries for dinner & breakfast. Managed to have some conversation with the help of google translate. Heard some Fado music in Coimbra. This is melancholy traditional Portuguese music. The Portuguese don’t smile much. It’s just not in their culture.

On Sept 6, walked 24.9 km into Sernadelo. Then Sept 7, walked 23.6 km into the very pretty town of Agueda. Very nice Santo Antonio hostel & garden. Colorful umbrellas are everywhere. The stations of the cross are pictured on blue&white tiles on the walls of the stairway leading up to the church. Shared a bottle of wine, olives & cheese with Dorota from Czech in the beautiful hostel garden full of lime trees. Fruit was hanging low but nobody was plucking it.

On Sept 8, walked 26.4 km into Branca. Stayed at Casa Catolica. They gave us dinner & breakfast. The host asked all pilgrims to come to the table together. It gave us a chance to chat & try to understand unfamiliar languages. He had the most variety in his garden…. a passion fruit bush & custard apples along with many others. On Sept 9, I dawdled 23.3 km into Santa Maria da Feira.

Arrived in Porto on Sept 10 checked into the pilgrim albergue in Porto. It is located about 2 km from the Douro River. Many people start from Porto so the albergue was full. Luckily, I had reserved a spot for myself the day before. I said goodbye to Inge who had 3 friends joining her from Belgium at Porto. They were going together to Santiago. I did the Porto walking tour & learned some interesting facts about Porto history. The San Bento train station with it’s famous tile walls was beautiful. On Sept 12, I moved to another hostel closer the river & met with Manu from the Desi Outdoors group based in New Jersey. Next day, Manu and I took the Douro Valley train to the village of Pinhão. This is the birthplace of Port Wine. It was a very scenic train ride. We stayed at Backpacker’s hostel in Pinhão. Our host Pedro & his wife were very hospitable and gave us lots of information about hikes in the area. We hiked the maze of vineyards, visited castle ruins on a hilltop, hiked to the olive oil museum. The views were fabulous.

Returned to Porto by train on Sept 15th. Met with the rest of the group from New Jersey…. Paresh & Parul Patel, Hireni, Rajeshree, Seema & Jolly. Everyone was happy & enthusiastic. I was happy to be enjoying their company. Spent the next two days wandering around Porto. Took all the NJ Desi Doerers to get their pilgrim passport at Porto Cathedral.

On Sept 17, the NJ group started their Camino and I resumed my Camino. I quickly realized they are all great hikers. They definitely outpaced me. (My only excuse is that they are all much younger than me). They are a lively group & enjoyed wining & dining along the way. We walked 25.4 km to Vairão & stayed at Mosteiro de Vairão. It was a spartan hostel which I was accustomed to but not so sure about the others. Most places on the Camino are ancient & historic. I enjoy the ambience of these places. For those who prefer modern conveniences & amenities it may be better to use one of the many available tour operators.

On Sept 18, we walked 15.3 km to the beach town of Povoa de Varzim. There was a parade celebrating the Feast of Our Lady of Sorrows. The Portuguese remember all their deceased family members on this day. There was a lady standing next to me who kept wiping away tears. Very different from a parade in USA.

Sept 19, walked 24.1 km to Marinhas. Nice coastal walk & views. At the Marinhas hostel, the talented Paresh Patel drew a picture of a hiker & labeled it Desi Outdoors. Left his mark on the Camino for future generations!!

On Sept 20, we walked 23.9 km to Viana do Castelo. We had dinner at a Punjabi restaurant. There we met the unforgettable Jose Queiroz. He was sitting at a table next to us. He told us that he knew everything about the Camino & could answer any questions we may have. He owns a Quinta (vineyard) right on the Camino. Jose has close ties to Goa. He told us to stop at his place next morning for coffee. We had a great visit at his ancient home on Quinta da Boa Viagem. His 18th grandfather was a famous navigator. He sailed his ships to Brazil & Goa. The king of Portugal at that time gifted the property to 18th grandfather in return for his service. Jose maintains the ancestral home beautifully. It’s a difficult job.

On Sept 21, walked 27.1 km to Caminha. On Sept 22, we took a train to Valenca. Then walked over the river Minho bridge into Spain & the town of Tui. There was much excitement. Tui was our first Spanish town. We stayed at an albergue connected to Tui Cathedral which is a late-Romanesque and Gothic-style church located at San Fernando square, in the center of the town. This concluded our walk along the Senda Litoral(coastal path).

On Sept 23, walked 16km to O Porriño. There was some festival being celebrated at O Porriño. On Sept 24, walked 15.8 km to Redondela. On Sept 25, arrived at Pontevedra after walking 20.8 km. Finally, I was able to eat some Spanish seafood paella. Delicious!! I had been craving it since entry into España. Got some roasted chestnuts at Pontevedra.

After Pontevedra I stayed with my original plan & continued on the espiritual variente. The others decided to go the Central Way. Probably better accomodations on the Central Way.

On Sept 26, I started the spiritual variant. This path definitely has fewer pilgrims but sufficient numbers for safety. It is also the most beautiful & scenic portion of the Camino Portugues. Along the way, I visited a working winery at Monasterio de Poio. I stayed at the pilgrim albergue in Armenteira after walking 20.6 km.  The nuns at the monastery had a nice service for those who wished to attend.

Next day, Sept 27, I walked 24.5 km to Vilanova de Arousa. Another great day on the Camino. Lots of orchards & grape harvesting along the way. Ocean views in the distance made it all perfect. Heard some interesting legends about the areas I was walking through. After settling into the albergue, I went to the pilgrim boat office & purchased a ticket for the next day. I was told that the boat leaves at 7:30 AM & I should get there by 7:15. No problem! The boat dock was a 5 minute walk from the albergue.

It was a full boat next morning, Sept 28, with about 100 pilgrims. They gave us breakfast. Everyone was socializing. Got to know some cool people on board. They told me I could get a special Compostela for the spiritual variant at Padron. It was a very pleasant 2 hour boat ride with nice views along the way. Some of us stopped at a cafe after getting off the boat. There was light rain so put on my poncho. Then walked to Padron & picked up my spiritual variant Compostela. After carefully storing the Compostela in a dry spot inside my pack, I walked 14.4 km to O Faramello pilgrim albergue.

It was a very easy walk into Santiago on Sept 29th. I went to the pilgrim office for my compostela. I had completed a total of 675 km. Then checked into the popular albergue called The Last Stamp where I got the last stamp on my passport. Met with some of the Desi Doerers. Attended the pilgrim service at the cathedral on Sept 30. Watched the solemn & joyful service. The famous Botafumeiro was lit and swung from the ceiling as the powerful voice of a monk’s singing filled the cathedral. He was singing a hymn ‘Nearer my God to Thee’. The same hymn was sung long ago at my dad’s funeral. It was an emotional experience for me.

On Oct 1, I boarded a bus Santiago-Lisboa. The rest of the gang was headed to Porto. I watched the names of places that I had walked through fly past the bus window. Arrived Lisboa at 6 PM and checked into my hostel.  Showed off my compostela to other hostel occupants. On Oct 2, I took the train to Sintra. Interesting Moorish castle & Quinta Regaleira. Ancient rites were performed at the Quinta by the Knights of the Templar. The 30m inverted tower was really cool.

On Oct 3, I visited birthplace of Amalia Roderigues, queen of soulful Portuguese Fado music. Wandered around the Alfama district. Then it was time to say ‘goodbye Portugal’. It was an easy, enjoyable & really long walk….

It was a memorable trek. It made me a better person(I hope). Walking through Portugal and Spain, I realized that this is the best way to experience another country and its culture. No guided tour can do this.

I was blown away by all the similarities to Goa. I must plan a visit to Goa soon. It is the land of my forefathers. I am vaguely planning another Camino in a few years….probably Camino del Norte starting from Bayonne, France.

• ← Celebrating Life in Coloradan Rockies
• Mystical Forces of Patagonia- A story by hikers →