Ladakh-The Mountains that Inspire.

LADAKH- The Fascination

Himalayan Ranges and its bewilderment has always been a fascination. As a child, I had travelled to Kashmir for snow and Rajasthan for desert, covered India with its uniqueness. I believed that’s all. I had known some people posted in the army at Ladakh, who talked about high altitude, and not so developed Ladakh and the hardship, at that time I didn’t care to know about Ladakh. Until, I saw the Ladakh terrain and Pangong Lake in an Aamir Khan Movie, 3 Idiots.

This year I was going for a long stay in India after Covid with Kids, so Ladakh popped up into my mind and I researched online trek and tour companies- (transferring Money- I was reluctant, as none are located in Ladakh,(authenticity issue). Then, I thought of reconnecting with my friend who was in Ladakh– then AF Commander Chief Juben (name change) and his wife Neha, who were posted there, and were raving about the beauty of  Ladakh, and had been inviting me occasionally. Juben had been on adventures from an early age and was also into trekking. I expressed my desire to visit Ladakh, my research, and the cost to Juben. Instantly, Juben offered me his source of ex-Armyman turned Adventure specialist who owns a Mountaineering company, and is experienced in mountaineering and could facilitate my itinerary according to my needs.

A feasible and cost-effective itinerary was planned (compromising of trek and tour travel) for 15 people (as nothing is in LADAKH, all food, etc., must be carried from Delhi or Manali.) by Mountain Expedition. I contacted the ‘Desi Outdoors’ meetup group which allowed me to post and host the event on the group(as I had previously posted my “Alaska Northern Lights-CastnerGlacier-Artic Circle Feb-2022” with Desi Outdoors). Eventually, I got 9 people from this group, and I got a 10th person from another meetup group.

I believe a JOURNEY IN HA MOUNTAINS OR HIMALAYAS is a personal experience, its one’s Soul experience and it needs one’s true Senses to feel the Elements, like the touch the soil, listen to the sound of streams, star gazing and monitor your heart-beat. It truly starts with leaving home comfort and being open to experience different life style.

This Event is my baby steps and attempt to know where I stand when left in Nature, and was not at all a difficult kind of task for any Nature Lover .

THE JOURNEY-(LADAKH through My eyes).

The Crew -The Team of 12 (Mountain Expedition) Chendiji, Gopal, Stanzin, cooking staff and four drivers

The Team of 10 Doeres- Archana, Ratan, Ratna, Ela, Arul, Kamal, Manju, Mona, Mindy and Rupali.

Our journey started on July 2nd, 2023 at Leh, one of the capital of Ladakh Union Territory(as Ladakh has 2 capitals ,Leh and Kargil).

DAY 1  –Leh

Flying with VISTARA AIRLINES navigating through gorgeous landscapes of   Shivalik range, Dhauladhar range, Greater Himalayan range, Zanskar range and Ladakh range was amazing.

We could see the NUN and KUN peaks distinctly-Part of Greater Himalayan Range. It consists of two main peaks: Nun (7,135 m (23,409 feet)) and Kun (7,077 m (23,219 feet)). Nun Kun is a mountain massif of the greater Himalayan range, located on the border of Jammu and Kashmir and Ladakh in northern India.(PIC.1)

We had Chendiji and Gopalji greeting us with welcome board at the airport and then escorted us to Hotel JIGMET .

At Hotel JIGMET the owner Jigmetji welcomed the Team with KHATAG/KATAK(white Tibetan scarf-PURE HEART OF GIVER) and offered hot beverage and snacks.

The team then gathered for lunch at dining hall, where first Diamox dose was given ,as per government rule ,acclitamization is mandatory.

They also asked us not to take  shower until next morning as acclitamization involves getting used to the atmosphere with all senses .(which was new).

The group rested in the afternoon, and evening went for a walk in LEH Market.

While staying in a hotel, I heard a group speaking in Marathi- I met Siddharth (a Trek /TourismLeader) and his wife, who are from Pune, and he had all praises for Khemraj and said Khemraj is his guru, me meeting Puneites was a pleasure. (Pune tithe kay une…😊).

Day  2—SPIRITUAL JOURNEY TO MONASTARIES.

After breakfast at the hotel and the second day of Diamox, we embarked on our journey to Monasteries. All teammates looking sound we started our journey for 7attractions today.

1. Shey Palace Monastary-

it’s the first Monastery of the day. It is situated on an average elevation of 3,415 meters (11,204 ft) and is surrounded by the Zanskar ranges and the Indus River valley. 

As we entered the room, we were welcomed by the compassionate gaze of Shakyamuni Buddha. The 12-meter statue rested in a seated position and occupied three floors of the building. A library of old manuscripts was also built on the ground floor. 

We kept on walking and reached the second floor of the monastery. The second floor of the monastery was filled with paintings of Buddha in different positions. The third floor consisted of several statues of Buddhist lamas collectively known as Arhats.

It was the first day and was mesmerizing, climbing steps was a kind of a task. The essence of holiness takes one to serenity. Time was a constraint .

2. Ranchos School and  SECMOL School–

Due to fast activity for Ladakh political cause ,  Sonam Wangchuk felt sick and SECMOL was prohibited for tourist. So we were left with visit to Ranchos school that was depicted for the “3 Idiot Movie shoot”.

3.Thiksey Monastaries-

Thiksey Monastery or Thiksey Gompa  is noted for its resemblance to the Potala Palace in Lhasa, Tibet, and is the largest monastery in central Ladakh.

It was just larger to life Picturesque Monastary.

The high  lights are as below-

1. Je Tsongkhapa pictured behind a prayer wheel, in a painting near the steps that lead to the main part of Thikshe monastery. Je Tsongkhapa  the founder of the Gelug School—often called “the Yellow Hats”

1. The statue of Maitreya Buddha at Thiksey is two storeys tall. the Maitreya Temple installed to commemorate the visit of the 14th Dalai Lama to this monastery in 1970; it contains a 15 metres (49 ft) high statue of Maitreya, the largest such statue in Ladakh.

When you are on time limit, you cannot dwell more in spiritualism ,you need to rush and catch up with whatever you could mesmerize .

4.Sindhu Ghat-

The group then headed to a river bank, enjoying some fun splashes and impromptu sit down comedy (as he doesn’twant to pursue as standup comedian)by Arul .The Indus had some in built sitting arrangements for functions and rituals.

5. Group then headed for lunch and LEH PALACE AND SHANTI STUPA.

6. AF Visit–

I skipped Lunch and Leh Palace to visit  AF station as I am still an Indian Citizen and had taken prior Permits, to visit them.

  It was an enthralling experience witnessing the Grandeur of Indian AF at Siachen Pioneers, its history, valor, and the campus. The present AF commander(Name Secure -Army security code) was very appt to the point, as he talked on topics, during our walk through campus.  And I was very much subconsciously talking(diverting) asking, about the hiking and rescue missions in between, he explained to me patiently, how rescue works in Ladakh and which all trek sites are dangerous. We talked about Tibetian  Immigrants in Ladakh and their population. He tipped that during Ladakh stay, warm water consumption is a necessity to avoid throat infections for all seasons. And then briefed on the High altitude acclimatization process and gave brief insight about the Indian army’s high altitude stay at 16000 ft and 18000 ft for months with snow-covered tent, diet, and health tips, very informative. He said always carry some med list for HA destinations (Nifedipine, Diamox, and a few more). At one point he was like in the future if you come to Markha Valley trek or any trek, you will be rescued as you know the Protocol (we laughed), that rang a bell for me to change the topic and I talked with sincerity to assure him, it’s all about Indian Army. He concluded, of course, it’s all about Army and Rescue😊.

He mentioned about the origin of the  name “SIACHEN “ , “SIA-Rose” and “CHUN-Abundance”,and  despite of  drastic weather ,Siachen Glacier area has  this wild Rose  in abundance.-Amazing Fact .This small visit with interesting topics was getting longer ,had to bid a salute.

The AF visit gave me a Patriotic Adrenaline rush ,I  gazed my Indian Passport with Pride.

Out of  AF gates back to mundane life, joined  Chendiji waiting outside the campus. We decided to visit Shanti Stupa, hoping to meet the group.

7. SHANTI STUPA-

Shanti Stupa is a Buddhist white-domed Stupa (Chorten) on a hilltop in Leh. It was built in 1991 by Japanese Buddhist Bhikshu, Gyomyo Nakamura, Shanti Stupa as a symbol of peace^. The evening was mesmerizing with the white dome Shanti stupa. Returned to the hotel, had dinner, and next day briefing from Chendiji for the group.

DAY 3 –(Monastary,and Gurudwara,Sangam ,Magnetic hill)

It was a long drive through the day with attractions and travel lined up.The group looked fine acclimatized for the day .

1.Lamayuru Monastary 

– it’s a Monastary  with a moonland crater area across . Lamayuru or Yuru Monastery is a Tibetan Buddhist monastery.

2.ALCHI Monastary–

This was a very sacred  experience as no Photos  allowed ,and you need to be covered top to bottom-a rule. I was wearing a dress so was asked to drape a “lungi” over my dress .The monastery complex has three major shrines: the Dukhang (Assembly hall), the Sumtsek and the Temple of Manjushri, all dating from between the early 12th and early 13th centuries. Chortens are also an important part of the complex. In addition, the Alchi complex has two other important temples, the Translator’s temple called the ‘Lotsawa Lakhang’ and a new temple called the ‘Lakhang Soma’. This collection of four small shrines in the Alchi village has been described by  Hindus.

The group had lunch in an nice Alchi venue .

3.Sangam(Nimmu)–

Sangam is the confluence of Indus and Zanskar Rivers in Ladakh. We had a stop there to witness the sangam .

4.Magnetic hill– Magnet Hill is a gravity hill located near Leh in Ladakh, India. Objects and cars on the hill road may appear to roll uphill in defiance of gravity when they are, in fact, rolling downhill. The  Car in neutral seemed pulled forward.Did feel the Suv moving when kept in nuetral.

5.The Gurudwara(the Gurudwara Pathar Sahib)-

It was devine visiting experiencing Sikh culture.It is popularly believed that during 1515-18 when Guru Nanak was returning to Punjab via Srinagar, after travelling to Sikkim, Nepal and Tibet, he had rested at this place. When he reached Leh he sat here to meditate.The story is about a Demon killing People and Guru Nanak.The infuriated demon thought that Guru Nanak Dev Ji would be dead but when he reached there, the rock was still there and when in anger he kicked it, his foot was also stuck in the rock. He soon realized Guru Ji’s spiritual powers and apologized. He also stopped killing people after that.

Back to the hotel had dinner and cut the cake for Ratanji on his B’day! And in the briefing, we were introduced to Ladaki guide Stanzin Tundup for the trek next day.

In Ladakh you also find these birds called”Magpie” depicted as a symbol of Good luck and fortune.It is common subject in Chinese Paintings.

Day4- SHAM VALLEY TREK

        – All got excited for the long 4 day trek –Prayers of all ,especially Ela for cloudy weather all 4 days were heard  and it showed cloudy weather throughout(a breezer). The nature of the trek as per Stanzin, was start at morning and end before noon,he goes by hours not miles. This pattern avoids all nuisances due to heat of the Sun .

We started our drive for an hour to the start point LIKIR.(3650m). The Ladakhi guide STANZIN was amazing -( a entertainer and well trail master )- he said it’s a cakewalk .

      It was 9km first day and the Campsite was across the stream. Stanzin is a Mountain Nomad, he has solutions for each problem in a natural way and is skilled to stay with the minimum resources. He even updated me about BARLEY fermented drink(it’s an energy drink on high altitude hikes they make it locally )-usually used on Markha, Matho, Stok, Alchi, etc. I called it “BARLEY DARU” ,as he had bottled it  up in empty Whisky Bottle  . He talked about European hikers doing Markha,Kangri, etc and other 4-5 level treks drink it on hikes. He said European hikers are adjustive by nature and live with bare minimum.It was very informative talk along the trek.

We had our camp at Yangthang. At camp, few of us danced to the music with Stanzin. Later,  the village walk was done by the path running between Willow trees and streams. In the evening,I had nice informative chat with Stanzin,Ela along the stream .Group meeting was always at dinner tent. Today after dinner some went for walk with Stanzin .The tents,food and ambience was amazing.The sky was cloudy and so it was warm by the stream, a bliss.

Day5-Second day of trek

We had a delicious breakfast from our master cook at camp and headed from Yangthang – Hemis shukpachen—8km reaching Tsermangchen La (3750m).

We reached camp by noon as usual and started getting ready for the lunch. Mona and Mindy decided to go to Homestay. Rest all continued with the camping tents. Again group went on a village tour and a monastery visit(which was closed )and then I accompanied them to” GOLDEN BUDDHA” at Hemis Shukpachen. Late evening with Ratnaji revisited the calm “GOLDEN BUDDHA” , overlooking the snow caped mountain range.Then was the dinner and the briefing for the next day trek.

Arul was a “sit down comedian”,the whole group had a double meaning conversation ,timely pointed by sit down comedian and we used to  have a wave of laughter . The staff also got used to double meaning convo to the point ,Gopal said “ Sabke pati patni  ko batana chahiye, kya batein karte hai”. Mona,Rupali ,Mindy,Ratanji,Ratna and Ela all used to laugh a lot, and later staff too joined it for rest of the days.

That night Stanzin offered the Bonfire. He said wood is rare as people store it for winter, so if interested then we should start. As the night was cold, checked the group count, and then I insisted on having it. He and Chendiji made arrangements for the Bonfire with an old Hindi songs playlist in the background with the group (camping ). Most of them enjoyed it, as they had been into the Rajesh Khanna etc era and were knowledgeable about the movies of that time(except me). Arul, Ratanji, Ukeys, and Ratnaji even had bets, on guessing the movie names -Ratnaji won one of them .

Then all headed warmed up to the tents to sleep.

Day 6-Third day trek

            The Sunrise was extraordinary, it was all bright, hoping for clouds.As usual after breakfast around 9 am we would head through the village and into the barren land. Today was 11 km-13 km and as one pass was closed.Stanzin informed  would take a little longer and a more elevation  with  the last “z” mountain climb,according to him we would  end the highest pt .that is at  13800 ft.

Today the landscape depicted tall huge mountains with colorful rocky terrain. We also got lucky to view some Ibex on a distant mountain.

Gopal accompanied me for the first half of the trial, It was fun with his general talk about other groups from  Pune, and their funny incidents. In the later half, I stayed with Chendiji, who gave info on one of the foods they cook from a distinct herb found in Ladakh that helps to retain body heat on cold nights. The  mountains around were huge and on the way, there were prayer walls like the previous day, where you can write a prayer of your favourite diety.

After reaching to the top ,there was long walk down to the camp ,but it was all barren scenic with its own uniqueness.There we noticed one huge “Sia- rose” plant on the trail behind a rock like a breezer in the barren lands.

The last camp was supposed to be at Ang -but due to rain the campsite was destroyed – so had to walk further down towards Nurla.

At Nurlacampsite, the camp tents were set and food was ready – the tent for the restroom was delayed -Arul stayed in the camp. Rest opted for homestay. I was low and had been feverish, but I gave up due to febrile symptoms and moved to a homestay. Ela needed internet for her business closure,so she was driven to the Hotel.(all happy).And decided to meet at tent for dinner and briefing.

As usual, the rest group decided to take a stroll to the Village with Stanzin , Chendi, andGopal. I decided to stay back, and chat with Locals .I was caught by the most beautiful striking feature of these local Ladies with sparkling eyes full of life and satisfaction. Happiness is a state of Mind ,it cannot be measured by worldly possession-was what these women echoed when they said -Jhulley with a 😊.

                     This Last evening, I spent with a Ladakhi Family (until group did village tour) ,this was the owner of home stay ,they shared their Wi -Fi -hotspot on request . This is a family of  five ,the grand parents,son,daughter- in- law,grand son .I was offered their local authentic gurgur tea(it was devine)  .The daughter- in- law and son knew communicable english and a little hindi ,I would say they spoke“Hinglish”.The daughter-in- law had good complexion, a short talk ended up informative. she gave info on local oils they use according to season and benefits of yak milk .She told me about major product  developed at Ladakh which is ‘Herbal multi- vitamin beverage’ from “leh berry/Ladakh gold” helps a lot. I googled to know the botanical name, its  “- Hippophae rham- noides (Seabuckthorn)”, a high altitude bushy plant- which keeps you radiant and boost healthy hair .Hmm ..I asked her to get me some I will pay her (whatever),she smiled she said its nothing about money, she needs a day to get from her friend as she was out of it,my bad I was just there for a night.

        Then they offered me to join dinner ,I did taste the mix veg curry she cooked , a different cuisine .I liked it though . I asked for a picture the father- in- law denied and said keep  us in memories .He said ,he don’t want people taking pics of his family members , as display of anything in their  culture captures bad eye(evileye) to the happiness of the family.(all due respect to his wish ,I stepped back).

                I had to leave, as I heard the group getting closer and needed to join the group for dinner at the Dinning tent. The  few hours with that family ,recharged my soul happiness (state of mind).All met at dinner and the briefing for the last day.

Day 7-  Last Day Of Trek

Decided to go to Tingmosgang Monastery at Nurla near the campsite .In the ancient times during the kingdom in Ladakh,this Place was the :’Summer Capitol of Ladakh” also known as “Capitol of lower Ladakh .

It had the famous wall painting of chakra of life(Pic below)

The inner circle had (snake-hatred/anger,rooster-moh/greed, and pig-ignorance)-these are 3 poisons according to Buddhism. And had other circles around it depicting life situations and more. We need to escape the inner circle chain to lead a good life.

Later all walked the way down through willow guarded roads to the trail end, where the Suv’s were waiting, and all headed back to the Hotel, and relaxed, only a few of us took to the shopping with Stanzin.

On the trek the group, each had their fun times with, the errand of photo poses, etc, and Ela was always ahead, with her nature captures. I loved my space and enjoyed the mountains and my solidarity in the group. At the dining table, it always used to be a question, what one liked about the day; where each one shared a thing and the day ended on a happy note or double meaning laugh,that’s my overall impression.

Ended the day with usual briefing, dinner and going to the bed.

Day 8- Hemis,  Khardungla to Diskit(failed attempt)

Next day was 9 th  JULY -100 percent Rain and roads blocked News flashed-RED ALERT for Ladakh.

In Ladakh unless you go to the junction ,you  never know about its closure .

(Ladakh is a rain-shadow area of India-so is barren, but due to Global warming in recent years it’s been subject to get rain, which has an impact on the resident’s livelihood, as all houses and construction used to be “mud bricks” and so in a couple of years, Ladakhi’s started to shield it with concrete and certain layers to protect the walls).

NEWS Channel buzzed about Manali, the Ladakh flood disaster, roadblocks, and,18 inches of snowfall at Khardungla pass. I woke up to messages on WhatsApp from loved ones about floods and enquiring about my whereabouts. I had to stay calm, and then walked out of the room, and reached out to Chendiji, he confirmed the same, he said let’s go to Khardungla road and check the situation .

Meanwhile, Juben called and said today just relax.On Sunday nothing works in Ladakh and he is in touch with AF at Leh , he will update and asked me to stay put till 10 th July afternoon.Chendiji informed all other roads to different other destinations are also blocked ,I asked Juben to reconfirm it with his AF base,it came positive.

So we had breakfast and headed to khardungla ,we were informed about 18 inches snow fall and road block due to land slides, so we decided to go to HEMIS MONASTARY for the day.

HEMIS MONASTERY- It was enchanting in the rains,we walked up to the Monastary.It had a magnificent museum . Hemis is a 17th century Buddhist shrine which was re-established in 1672. This famous monastery in Ladakh is of the Drukpa Lineage of Buddhism. The museum that houses a wide collection Tibetan books, Thangkas, gold statues and Stupas embedded with precious stones, weapons, carriers, and even a stuffed vulture pup.

The visit to Hemis made the day,with its hypnotic feel with rains,and the informative museum and the local cadbury that we shared and relished. With some relief on the rainy day ,we returned to our suvs.

Meanwhile, Mona had breathing issues ,oxygen spray was given to her and she was rushed to the nearby  pharmacy clinic in the afternoon , they check primary parameters ,and asked to go to Leh hospital,where she was examined and was sent back to the hotel .

      I and Chendi had a talk on further navigation,as we lost a day ,we talked with Kheemji, Turtuk scheduled was not possible as it is 90 km away in opposite direction to Diskit. So we narrowed on a possible plan, that if we would attempt Khardungla next day ,when road cleared and reach Diskit ,we could continue to do Hunder on the morning of the day to Pangong .At dinner all were briefed on Khardungla as to go to Diskit you have to pass it, there is no other route and we wait till tomorrow for roads to clear.

Mona had a similar episode at 12 pm-1 am and was given oxygen at the hotel by the company, using an oxygen cylinder, and was taken to Leh hospital and sent back. Due to repetitive episodes, Mona had to discontinue Journey with us.

Day 9-Khardungla,Diskit

Now we were 9 left for the Journey.The Morning was laid back , everyone needed sleep ,so all assembled around 10-10:30 am at dining hall. Everyone shaken with land  slide updates,redalert and a little distorted feeling,decided to vote for Khardungla and Diskit.

      I was sure on AF updating , Juben  said it is a sure thing by 2pm .Khemji assured if Juben gets update ,you are good to go 100%. I received message a proper gov document of all good for khardungla  by 2pm.I was determined to go same day Monday . The team agreed to go till khardungla road at 11:30am and wait one hr and give it a pass if road closed. We went and then returned  back and thought of doing ATV at Magnetic hill (I had khardungla in my head ) .When Mindy and group stopped at Gurudwara ,I just said its 10^th today, no matter what on 12 th I am going alone hiring a cab( as even Company said drivers get tired wouldn’t do on 12 th)and you all can  relax at hotel .  But was hoping for people to get ready for today,it  is the day .  And Chendi  said  “Madamme where alone on 12 th you are thinking of going, we can go today khemji said its GO  from Juben as per gov document road cleared at 2 pm” . All group agreed ,I kissed thankyou to Mindy (from heart really thanked for agreeing)at 2pm to start for khardungla even if it gets dark..that was a bliss-Gurudwara enlightened minds.

And   9 of us headed ..thanks to great drivers Ahezaz,Padma,Mohammad,Dorje -God bless .

The fun  part of this drive; it was full of fearless Indians and the Suvs are not four wheel drive etc just normal ones ,they have chains if needed and People drive in one narrow lane bothways they come out of  cars,push cars and that’s what makes India indeed great, at high altitude people without gloves in snow and eating bananas ,helping each other acclitamized me immediately 😊  . some  crazy pics below .

We reached Sanddune hotel @11pm a hot Dinner waiting for us and Rooms set,brief to meet@8 for BF

Day 10-Hunder ,Diskit

The day we went to Hunder-a desert surrounded by snow capped mountains and camels ,we had a good time trying Archery, Pittu /Lagori and the camel ride .These are two-humped camels are natives of Mongolia in central Asia well spent time .

Then we went to visit The 108 feet tall statue of Maitreya Buddha is located just below the Diskit monastery. It represents 3 ideas: protection of the Diskit Village, promotion of world peace & prevention of further war with Pakistan.The gold and red coloured Mitreya Buddha statue faces the Shyok River towards Pakistan and is seated below the Diskit Monastery above a hill.

Then we drove thru a rustic road crossing water it was amaing ride along  colorful huge barren Mountains to Pangong lake. At eve  reached , Pangong lake the scene was enthralling .

The Luxury tents with a royal bed and the lake were a bliss, as we got off the Suv, all felt heavy and like labored breathing, which was out of place as all this time we had acclimatized, going to the dining hall the climb was kind of Pain. The sky was amazing and full of stars, all had dinner and briefing. And I thought of gazing at the stars but couldn’t do it longer, due to lightheadedness, I just could go to the sitting area of my tent and gaze at the stars, but yes felt heavy while breathing and Dizzy or Drunk.

Day 11-

The song that describes Pangong lake and the drive to it through barren colorful snow caped Mountain ranges is –“kya  Mohobbat hai ,kya Nazare hai”.

The Good Morning was very bright,overlooking the Pangong lake.

Light headedness and the drunken feeling continued for me , and    I  had Saree session , Photo shoot . Then it was somekind of discomfort feeling, I thought it was bright sun hitting my eyes,or something I felt  the need to sleep.

                After a while, it was Chendi and Gopal,approaching me , said” we need to start now, please pay the packed  lunchbill”,I felt like starwar character’s approaching me,and asking me money,😊.Definitely something was wrong ,I walked up to SUV’s and I asked Arul to collect the money .I looked around, I felt funny in  my head.And to make it normal I took back from Arul and paid to the tent guide,like the royals in the Crown. Then  we all 9 (Idiots)😊headed to  3 idiot shoot point  . The group had their Photoshoots ,funshoots, Ukeys(the SweetMovieCouple) and rest  all of the group ( his and her highness-Royals,and few I felt like characters from Downtown Abbey),Ela (the Supergirl),and Chendi,Gopal ,Drivers(starwar characters) precisely my state of mind .I knew I was losing my mind, I needed to keep intact, so I kept to myself and  I  just sat on banks of Pangong…for symptoms to subside. I kept reminding myself “ I am the Host , and  I am just missing TV” .At Pangong area there was no internet /phone signal I could not share the funny state of mind and laugh aloud .And I am 100% sure no one understood.

Then I slept in the car as was low on immunity and woke up to a fever at Changla Pass, but the light headed feeling had gone some how , only was down with  fever and cough  on the way to  Leh ,my car mates Ratanji ,and Chendiji reccommended for hospital visit for fever and cough..

Reached Jigmet hotel @4pm …I headed to room and slept, told Chendiji will visit hospital when group goes for Light and Sound show @8.

@8pm  at Leh hospital the Doctor said I had mild upper respiratory symptoms due to allergy and fever and should be ok by morning and if fever gone all is well. I was prescribed URI antibiotic that helped next morning I was good ,my fever had gone and cough reduced .

Day 12-

I had relief with those meds and was good to go to Tso Moriri. Chendiji confirmed no fever and started our drive to Tso Moriri after breakfast.

The way to Tso Moriri was another scenic ,similar to Pangong lake . very rural ,scenic and rustic.we witnessed Pilgrimage on our way and had a remote local lunch ..the warm dal and rice and Maggie cooked by a roadside venue with bare minimum facilities,was finger-licking and satisfactory.The drive was scenic.

There was a lake with cloud formation and rain drizzle at a distance with white sky above the clouds. It was a picturesque scene like some one painted it on Canvas. We reached Tso -Moriri @ 5pm.

Amazing fact TSO -MORIRI is  at higher altitude than the PANGONG lake ,and I did not get light headedness or any discomfort,the Team members also felt the same ,very much normal. Then we went for Nomadic Village tour ,where we encounter yaks,pashmina sheeps and the group walked down to the tent site.We had dinner and briefing for the next day and went of to sleep.

The Tso Moriri tents were similar to Pangong lake Luxury tents with attached bathrooms .The only difference was they gave hot water bags to keep you warm, while you sleep,for comfort at night.

Day 13

We woke up in the morning as usual ..the beautiful Tso Moriri  glowed up ..had breakfast and then headed to Monastary and then to Puga valley.

On our way back,we went to Hot Spring  at Puga Valley,it’s a thrilling experience,jumping on island of grass ,dodging the water holes.All were dressed well, so decided not to go nearto the spring .I was determined to go ,was ok taking chances to spoil the clothes and with help of team of drivers  made it to the hot spring. Then on way to the car washed off the mud . It was one of its own kind experience.

On our way back passed Taglangla Pass and had some Photo shoots in the Mountains.

The Mountain Expedition crew needed to head back to Manali by 4pm as there were rains next 2 days and they would stuck stranded away from families.I had asked jigmet for farewell cake for them and it was ready on time .Once we hit Jigmet at 4 pm bid goodbyes to the company with cake cutting  and  handing  gratuity to the crew of  Mountain Expedition,and in return they  distributed Manali caps to all including Jigmet and we had farewell photo. The Journey ended on a warm note.

Thankyou all who had been part of the Journey.

After that some headed for shopping, and we had Dinner at Jigmet and tipped Jigmet dinning staff , I wanted Champagne and Wine for toast -Jigmet said Leh doesn’t carry ,so was disappointed ,but to surprise , ended the night with “OLD MONK” by Ukeys .

Day 14 th-

Morning woke up to board a flight each one had diff flight ,so with heavy heart after tea made up mind to leave Jigmet -which had been a home till now as got always same room and the stay was 7 days of journey.

On the way to Airport, heart was filled with Leh essence and at same time body and head was getting ready for future destination..there was kind of numbness till I boarded flight and when Flight took off ,while gazing out of window heart sank with the thought of Missing this Enchanting Pisturesque Mountains and getting it logged into Memory files of ones Brains.

Ending with a quote for Ladakh-

“Beautiful Places are almost alive! When you visit them,you can feel their breaths.

You can’t really say,what is beautiful about a place,but the image of the place will remain vividly with you.” .

-Archana J

• ← S2S: Sofa to Summit