Kailash Parikrama: Self Reflection on Manasarovar

I returned home after an unsuccessful attempt to summit Aconcagua, content reaching Plaza Colera (camp 3) at about 20000ft. Somewhere deep inside a voice resonated that I am now ready to attempt Kailash Parikrama. I wanted the experience to be spiritual Yatra instead an enduring hiking experience. Been hiking for the past few years, summitted many of the 35’ers in Catskills, Mt, Washington, Mt Elbert in CO, Grand Canyon, Half Dome any many more… Added enough milage to my legs to attempt Kailash parikrama. Several of my hiking friends had completed parikrama and shared their experiences and momentous spiritual profundity reaching Charan Sparsh.

My upbringing is a universe away from what I have made my life to be. I suppose hitting the big 50, has made me introspect and this material world’s influence has perhaps made me engage in some course correction. I have been going to Shiva-Vishnu temple for the past couple of years, join Vishnu Sahasranamam Parayanam group every Saturday and on pradosham for Rudrabishegam. Priya and I started practicing Sivapuranam, listened to Dr Sudha Seshayyan’s and Mangayarkkarasi’s discourses.

This past spring our friends: Ramani and Swarna had invited for Ekadasha Rudram chanting (11 times). It was an immersive 3-hour recital, pooja and rituals experience. For the first time Priya and I chanted Sivapuranam that day to everyone’s surprise.

My earliest memory of listening to Rudram was at Rathnagireeswarar temple in Besant Nagar. I along with Sriram, Murali and Mahesh went to temple every day without miss. We were young to know anything about spirituality, but it was like brushing teeth or taking shower for personal hygiene, we made it a daily habit. Ever since then, I had always wanted to learn to chant Rudram.

Early Life influences

I was probably six years old, when I recall my Thatha taking me to Swami Chinmayananda’s discourse on Bhagavad Gita. My earliest and first memory of a temple visit to Eldam’s Road Murugan temple. Then on, the regular family visits to Kapaleeswarar Koil, not a short walk between Alwarpet and Mylapore at that young age. Cradle habits continue to until death, I along with friends used to visit Rathnagireeswarar koil daily in Besant Nagar, and daily visits to Maakaaliamman koil in Anna Nagar when I stayed home unemployed after finishing college.

Another aspect to quote, is when Appa took me to meet Rukmini Devi Arundale and enrolled me at Kalakshetra for Carnatic music. The next three years I would literally run to music lessons after attending regular school. This seeded and enhanced my interest to learn many a song, sthothram and slogams. I couldn’t continue due during high school but returned back Carnatic school during my third year of college only to discontinue in final year. The yearning to learn has not yet been quenched but then, the time and patience to learn has also dwindled, putting me in a state of conundrum.

Temporary lapse

I tried to stay headfast on this journey but picked up some vices along the way and coming to America being alone by myself, would only weaken the virtues instilled. Thankfully, Karma played the right role and Priya kept me in check. I lost focus on the path that was laid for me as a child and for nearly 2 decades I ran the rat race not knowing where I started or when I am heading towards. Like a hamster on a wheel, wake up and run along in the direction the world spun and reverse course in the evening. A pointless exercise, though some relevance when you start a family nevertheless misguided priorities to meet the social contract, amass material wealth and to keep up appearances.

COVID happened to put a stop to this insanity, I made effort to learn Sanskrit and Gita, but then discontinued again. However, after repeated on and off attempts I have finally stuck a regular routine to get back on my childhood path guided by people whom I look up to.

I had come to suffice my own benchmark in training, both physical and spiritual aspects and embark on this once in a lifetime trip. However, it would not be possible, without the influence of many other family members. The list is long to name them all, but the grateful to all who have kept me in check all along the way.

Hiking for spiritual health

Timed breath,

Measured strides,

In rhythm with pulsing heart;

Enables a steady pace,

To summit mountain top.

I find it easy to calm my mind when I go on these multi day hiking journeys, far away from the hustle-and-bustle chaotic yet somewhat organized material life. Though there are bouts of some disturbances in my head of woulda, coulda and shoulda past episodes, as I focus on coordinating my breath and walking strides to keep my heartbeat in rhythm; a sense of ease and calmness settles eventually that keeps me walking on for long hours of time and surprisingly little food sometimes. Hiking every weekend, gives me the window to practice meditation, or I should say mindfulness more effectively. This practice has helped me improve my hiking ability and endurance.

Half Dome

Back in September ’23 I planned to Summit Half Dome, this would be my first true backpacking experience. Along with few others, joined to explore Yosemite back country and live the raw experience in nature: cook as a group dried food, gather water from running stream and filter for consumption, take care of personal hygiene with minimal implements. It was an amazing experience to live eco-friendly life. We experienced, snow, relentless rain, bitter night cold with less adequate insulation but yet survived and summitted one of the toughest climbs I’ve endured. This would some groundwork and training for my Kailash Parikrama.

All went well, I successfully summitted and came back home unscathed, or so I thought. Around New Years’ time, my left knee started swelling and I ignored it thinking, I probably sprained it in one of my hiking trips. A couple of weeks later the pain got bad, and my left knee got stiff that I couldn’t bend it and my right knee got swollen too. Visited Doc to find out that I was infected with Lyme’s disease. Took antibiotics course which alleviated the pain and swelling but had to put my hiking trips, and practice and preparation for Kailash Parikrama to rest. Here I was thinking, I have done all these high-altitude summits and totally ready but then reality checks in, not too soon! I did not sign up for the Kailash trip with our regular hiking group, however surprisingly Ramesh a recent acquaintance, and Yuvaraj’s (Dachu Anna’s son-in-law) relative posted a message on WA group sometime in Apr-May about an upcoming Kailash trip, I was really surprised; like this was a calling I cannot miss!!!

Back to hiking basics

I hadn’t hiked since January and by the time I did one trip over the hill and back down at Cushetunk, my knees where shot. It was very painful; I use to comfortably do the same 4or 5 times, during my peak practice days prior to Aconcagua. My hiking abilities were reset to 3 years prior. I knew my work was cut out and kept going to Cushetunk every weekend.

Over next couple of months, I connected with larger group over WA that comprised of Ramesh & Bhavani, Ravi & Vasavi and their daughter Sahithi, Praveen & Bhuvana, Ram & Uma, Pritish & Pragya, Madhu, Venkat and Maithreyi. They’re all from Ashburn VA, neighbors who have known each other for a long time. It was good to be part of the group, since we had planned it as a pilgrimage and not a hiking trip. The tour organizer had setup calls to discuss/plan for the trip, and Q&A sessions. Pritish shared a good piece of info on how to take Passport photos on your cellphone and get them printed at Walgreens for fraction of cost. I shared my experiences on how to prep for a multiday high-altitude hike, how my experiment with beetroot juice had paid-off, practice on some breathing techniques and things to pack. A couple of weeks prior to departure, the group met in Virginia at one of their houses to chant Hanuman Chalisa. Things were lining up well for the big trip.

Off to Kathmandu

Due to unrest in middle east, I cleverly (or so I thought) booked tickets on Cathay Pacific: JFK – Hong Kong – Kathmandu. Packed my office laptop, 45L backpack and Samsonite black hard suitcase and lugged them to reach JFK taking NJT and A-train. It was convenient; saved at least $100 instead taking Uber. The flight to Hong Kong was 14hrs long and flew over the Arctic; my first such flight. I watched Quiet Place: Day One and liked it very much. Since I signed up for veg meal, I was served ahead of everyone else and finished my meal before they served others.

The plane descended for landing, watched blurry and gloomy Hong Kong skyline in the distance; right below us was an offshore wind farm and in between I could see the long bridge over the bay that connected mainland to Macau. The airport interior was very bright with natural lighting unlike the ones in our neighborhood. I got off in Terminal 3, had priciest ever Mushrooms & Kale with white rice, just for the sake of eating experience in HK. The mushrooms were good, very meaty! Went to men’s bathroom and while washing noticed someone, Xiang Xiu left had left his passport and boarding pass on the counter by the washbasin (SMH). My connecting flight to Kathmandu leaves from gate 41, and this guy’s flight (Cathay Pacific) was leaving to Beijing from gate 42, that leaves in another hour or so. I approached the gate to notice airline personnel closing it since a flight had just left. Spoke to a lady about the predicament, and a guy joined our conversation to let know it was not their responsibility since they do not work for Cathay Pacific and asked me to go cops. I managed to convince them to ensure the documents were handed over the passenger appropriately.

Boarded my connecting flight and watched movies back-to-back so that I don’t fall asleep. It was a shorter flight about 4.5 hours, watched Gran Turismo – biopic of Jann Mardenborough, an excellent movie. I wanted to ensure that I get a good night sleep after reaching Kathmandu, since we had a big day planned out to visit temples the next day. Landed in Tribhuvan airport, a golden’ish Buddha statue welcomed us with the message Buddha was born in Nepal. Weather was pleasant didn’t feel the usual thick hot humid air as in Chennai. Immigration/VISA process was seamless, noticed quite a few white people and stood in line for baggage security clearance as we were exiting the airport. First time ever going through such a process, no other airport has this. People were chatting that it was because of the IC 184 hijacking back in the 90’s. The criminals carried weapons and electric/electronic gadgets that were used to execute the plot.

As I was walking to the exit noticed some tour operators with placards looking for guests, but the clowns from Nidhi were nowhere to be seen. The security at the gates showed me right to the waiting area. Later came to know that I should’ve walked across the street and looked for Nidhi guys at the end of long line of visitors. An hour had gone by, I made several calls to tour operator, exchanged WA messages and calls and what not to find someone to come and pick me up. No coordination or planning whatsoever, I was dismayed that these guys can’t execute a simple task of picking up guests from Airport.

Eventually met up one of the guys, Ram Babu also one of our guides hailed a Toyota SUV for my drive to Hyatt. The rest of the group members had landed there a day before.

Kathmandu

Hyatt is situated just 15-20 mins ride from the airport, checked in and bellhop brought my luggage to room. I didn’t have any Nepal currency to tip him, and neither did Karthi. Exhausted, went to sleep and woke up fresh the next day and ready for a full day schedule of visiting temples. Went downstairs to restaurant and had cleansing hot water and masala chai!!! Since Covid times I stopped eating breakfast, doing the 16-8 intermittent fasting. But binged on breakfast in a long time: Masala Dosai, Idli, Poori and Kichadi etc. I ate like someone who hadn’t seen food in a while. We regrouped like an hour later and met with the group. I handed over passport to Ram and signed some paperwork for Tibet Visa.

September 11^th, 2024

Budhanilakantha Narayan temple

Morning rush hour in Kathmandu is as bad as any other major city, and its dense population only exasperates. Took us nearly an hour or so to get to the temple. Met Sita, her husband, and Bhavna, and the rest of the group took 2 choppers to visit Muktinath Temple. Enroute, we stopped at another to pick up Raghu, a “SIVA BHAKTHA”, will telltale his crazy antics as the story progresses 😉

For an ancient temple, this is situated in a densely populated side street and had no Vimana or Pagoda. Temples in Nepal are built in one of 3 architecture styles: Shikara or Vimana, traditional style as most temples in North India, Pagoda and Stupa. I noticed a multistoried building adjacent to the temple on the left as you enter, perhaps private quarters and classrooms. In Nepal, some of the temples you can enter wearing footwear, but we removed ours and placed it in a corner and continued in. Once you enter the temple, straight ahead you’d see a big temple bell to ring and adjacent to it, is a Ganesh idol and to the right of it is a peetam with several lingams. There’s a Veda Patasala a few steps down, and kids were learning and reciting mantras. I brought such joy to see our ancient practices alive as part of daily common life.

Turning around I could see devotees waiting in line to enter the pond to offer namaskarams to principal deity of the temple, Budhanilakantha Narayan. The name of the deity sounds like mashup of 3 different gods, it means old Nilakantha Narayan, and the story is:

We know the story; Parvati holds a tight grip across Shiva’s throat to stop Alakala visham entering his digestive tract, at that instant He flings His Thirisoolam which pierces a mountain, from which a spring started flowing. This spring fills a pond inside the temple, upon which Maha Vishnu is in seshasayanam. Hence the name Budhanilakantha Narayan. Unlike Padmanabhaswamy’s anatasayanam in southern temples, here Vishnu is in a posture with legs crossed forming a diamond shape and hands on the sides.

There was a line to enter the pond, went to the back and started reciting Sahasranamam using the app from my phone. But as I entered the pond, security asked me to close the phone even though I am not using it to take pics. I tried to reason but in vain, so had to stop and stash my phone in my pocket. Offered some flowers to deity and started to exit the pond, when Karthi pulled me aside to mention that the top of the Vishnu’s face could be seen as reflection on the pond, which apparently is a unique feature since the angle of reflection is not possible. Several others mentioned the same, which I did not find as some mystical, magical, or divine interference, but perhaps an artistic ingenuity/capability of the sculptor who crafted it. He had cleverly placed impression of deity’s padams (feet) adjacent to the pond to witness this feat, as one offers pranams.

I was puzzled how the idol floats on the pond especially the stone being black looked like granite. I thought it was clever engineering perhaps as it must be an extension from the steps on the side of the pond. However, recently when I was reading about the temple, came to know that the stone might be solidified ash or pumice stone, which will stay afloat like the one at display in Rameshwaram. Apparently, pumice stones were used by vanaraseva to build the Setu Samudram for Rama to cross the sea to Lanka.

Walked around pond to noticed Rudraksham tree for the first time in my life. Completed my pradhakshanam, and stepped out of the temple and were about to get back into the bus when someone stopped and asked us to visit Seshanagam sannidhi around the corner.

A priest there offered elaborate poojas, and water and milk abhishegams on our behalf to the Nagam idol. He explained the Royal curse that King Malla, had a prophetic vision that members of his family would die, if they visited the temple. One of the heads of 12 headed Seshanagam stands guard so that no member of the Royal family enters the premises. We offered some dhakshinam to the priest and headed back to our bus to our next temple visit.

Swayambhunath Temple

As the name suggests, this is shrine dedicated to Shiva, however over time Buddhists built a stupa/tower on top of the mound that looks like a lingam. There is a Kamalam (Lotus) carved inside the mound. A standing Buddha statue welcomes you situated in a decorative pond and to the left more Buddhist idols and paraphernalia along the side of hill. To the right there is a BIG concrete bell anchored in place on the steps where it is positioned.

The shrine is built on a small hill overlooking Kathmandu, walked a flight of stairs to get to the top. As you climb the steps you can see the city appearing on the right, there was a landing halfway with a small craft shop and a guy was chiseling a miniature elephant and wooed to sell his art piece. I was impressed to see his workmanship, unfortunately did not carry any Nepali currency (still SMH) to buy. Continued walking up to the top to see expanse of sprawling city below us and into far distance. Kathmandu is perched precariously on several hilltops, valleys and mountain slopes, and the city continues to grow despite being situated on volatile earthquake prone foothills of Himalayas.

I could see the giant semi-sphere painted white and on top of it a Buddhist fixture; like a cube made of brass alloy sat on the mound with big eyes painted on it, and upon which a conical structure built with tiered rings that tapered to the top. On top of the cone was a mast with colored flags, it just didn’t look nothing like a Shiva temple. Walked around to notice a huge model of VAJRA, must be at least 8-10ft across perched at the top of steps that descended all the way down to street. Not sure what significance the ancient war weapon has to do with pacific Buddhists. Circled around back to where we entered the shrine. Saw few of Buddhists who were chanting, some meditating and some just spending/whiling away time, certainly no longer an active or functioning Shiva temple unfortunately. One of innumerable temples that has fallen to lapses of time; invaders who desecrated them, but glad to see at least some aspects of original structure still existing. As we walked down the stairs to exit, in the distance we could see Kopan monastery – a Buddhist monastery managed by exiled Tibetans.

Guhyeshwari Sakthi Peetam

Our next stop was to visit this temple, one of the powerful Sakthi Peetam’s. Legend states that, Sati jumps into yagna pyre, since her father Daksha insults Shiva. Grief stricken, Shiva picks up her body and walks around as her body breaks into pieces and falls at 51 different locations across our sacred land. Here in Kathmandu her rectum is worshipped in the main Sannidhi.

Driver parked our bus on the far side banks of Bagmati river, and we walked across the bridge over the river. On the other of the bridge there was a water outlet, through natural spring water kept flowing to cleanse our limbs before entering the temple. Temples in Tamizhnadu have “madhil suvar” (boundary wall) painted with alternating stripes of White and Saffron, here the gate was painted in White, while the walls extending on either side was painted in Red. Entered the temple and climbed a flight of stairs to land on the prakaram. We could see small three-tiered pagoda tower over the main sannidhi and interestingly 4 nagas one from each corner facing a kalasam or bell like feature on the top. Here too, we can walk inside the temple with footwear, but I removed them and placed in a corner where some people were sitting on a thinnai (patio outside a hall) and chatting.

However, the sannidhi was closed for ucchakalam (noon), joined the people on the patio and waited for like half hour or less before they allowed people to enter. Circumambulated the pathways inside and noticed Devi’s rectum is placed in a pit and pooja was offered by a woman priest. There were a few eroded idols plastered in saffron and turmeric that I could see but couldn’t identify the deities, and no inscriptions were near them. As I walked out, noticed a Lion, Sakthi vahanam facing the Sannidhi and flanked by statues of couple of Royals sitting/kneeling position doing namaskarams placed on a high pedestal, and around the corner was a Trishul placed on a pedestal as well.

It was time to exit the temple and head back to Hyatt for lunch. Menu was elaborate, so many dishes and I overindulged on the food. We had break time for perhaps an hour or so before leaving to Pushupathinath temple. Our group had arranged for Rudrabishegam!!!

Pashupathinath Temple

The folks who visited Muktinath joined us as we boarded the bus and headed to Pashupathinath temple. This time, Ravi and Vasavi’s daughter Sahithi joined us. Apparently, she fell ill after reaching Kathmandu. We entered the temple from a side entrance and left our footwear at a shop near the entrance. Walked straight ahead and joined a group of Purohits at a mandapam on the left, I think 11 of them were there if I remember correctly. They had assembled there to do the Rudrabishegam, I suppose 11 count was to amount for Ekadasha Rudram.

The next hour and half they performed Rudrabishegam, the style was different compared to how we do at Shiva-Vishnu temple. Tried my best follow, but the mantras were slightly different. It occurred to me, to get three face Rudraksham, and get it blessed during the pooja. The pooja ended well and each one of us got a Rudraksha mala, first time in my life and elated to wear. It was close to 6pm and we rushed into the temple.

I found the temple façade underwhelming compared to the temples in South, which are so grandiose and literally takes your breath away, when you look at the vimana, prakaram, architectural style and landscape. The main entrance was painted white and built with bricks as compared huge granite interlocking blocks, that are used to construct southern temples. Our Kings had such imagination, wealth and managerial capacity to undertake such feats, and talented and masterful architects & engineers to execute them. I recollect watching YouTube videos on earliest Chola temple prototypes like Vijayala Choleeswaram at Naarthaamalai, Pallava temples in Tamizhnadu, and Chalukya’s Badami temples in Karnataka. Slapped myself silly, although the architecture adds value to aesthetics of the temple complex, it’s the consecrated murthi, the energy presence in the moolasthanam (main sannidhi) that attributes to spiritual relevance.

Started reciting Sivapuranam as I entered the temple to see a massive Nandhi Bhagavan in sitting posture facing the main Sannidhi. The statue was made of brass or some metallic alloy and approached to offer my pranams. The line to see Harathi and take the inner circle around sannidhi was quite long, but I wanted to see the Bagmati Harathi by the riverbanks like the one at Kasi. So stood in the much shorter line to approach Sannidhi and found a nook to park myself as we got close to Sannidhi. Walking up a short ramp. I positioned myself on the landing area up the ramp facing the inner sanctum to complete reciting. Stood there with my eyes closed and soak in the divine image.

Pashupathinath is a Panchmukha Shiva lingam, however I saw only 4 faces one on each side, and the top of lingam was adorned with flowers, and could not notice the fifth face. The security nudged me to move along, feeling thankful of being there and contented, walked down the set of steps to my left, with the image of adorned Shiva lingam still in my eyes. Continued my pradhakshanam, climbed up a set of steps, and stopped by more lingam Sannidhis to left of main Sannidhi. On the rear side, stopped by to do namaskarams to Ganesh, and Surya Narayana and continued to walk around. Stepped into a Sannidhi with a huge Kala Bhairava, almost standing 7-8ft tall and 3ft wide, four arms, armed with weapons and laughing. The priests were an elderly couple offering flowers and tilak to visiting devotees. Karthi and I entered the Sannidhi, sat in a corner and I started reciting Sivapuranam again, while he started meditating. I opened my eyes to see the lady acknowledge with a smile to see us meditating. I have never seen a couple perform pooja rituals together to a deity anywhere in southern temples. Exited from there to complete my pradhakshanam back to sitting Nandhi. Right next to Nandhi was an idol of Hanuman facing him. Noticed statues of Nepal’s royals doing namaskarams to Shiva, and there were idols of saptha rishis perhaps, a couple of them looked Chinese though. An idol of Shiva with his lingam(manhood) pointing up erect. Such idols are rarely found in southern temples, at least I have never seen one. Left the temple premises and onward to see Bagmati Harathi, before stopping outside the main gate to take a couple of snaps.

Bagmati Harathi

Walked to the entrance to make a left and walk through the street with shops on the right. As I got close to the observation area to watch the Harathi, I could smell a strong odor emanating from funeral pyre. Just about then noticed the rest of the group walking along with one of the Purohit, I joined them to walk across the river over a bridge and find a place behind the Harathi stage. The place was crowded, and I kept moving around to find vantage point, from where I was able to see the ritual Deeparadhana without any hindrance or obstruction. Just being there witnessing the process, amidst the sea of devotees; who by the were mostly youngsters, the music and the aura; I was emotionally charged and overwhelmed!!! It was quite a blessing to partake in it and experience this GRAND ANCIENT RITUAL!

On the way back to bus, stopped at the store adjacent to temple and bought trimukha Rudraksham. Some of us bought samagri items to perform Thithi at Manasarovar. As I got out of the store realized that I had forgotten my flipflops at the shop inside the temple, but fortunately Venkat had brought along with some other stuff the people had left behind to the bus. The ride back to Hyatt was a short one, went back to room for a quick wash before coming down back for dinner. Once again, I overindulged with menagerie of eclectic food, I was just carb-loading for the parikrama or so I convinced myself. Retired back to room, tomorrow’s schedule was much lighter, we were going to visit Dholeshwar and Changu Narayan temples.

September 12^th, 2024

Karthi wakes up around 4AM every day for his daily meditation, while he was meditating, I recited Sivapuranam. For the rest of the trip, everyday both of recited Sivapuranam together. Then after, we’ll go for our morning Chai and cup of hot water. I was getting familiarized with the group members, would meet Ravi and Vasavi for morning Chai. Ravi was friendly, Karthi mentioned he looked like the actor Shoban Babu😊 Madhu a strong Sanatana advocate. He and Venkat were tied to the hip throughout the course of the trip, good friends and neighbors. Bhavani would say “Sorry” for anything and everything way too apologetic 😊 Over time as I engaged with Ramesh, realized we have many common family relations. Praveen would make jokes about, Karthi and I as cousins, or was he?!?! 😉

Dholeshwar Temple

Our day trip started off visiting Dholeshwar temple, we were joined by Ram Babu and another guide Anil. It was relatively a short drive, and the driver stopped the bus at the bottom of short hill. I bought an archana thattu with flowers and incense sticks as offering. Walked up the hill to enter the temple, removed our footwear and left it near the shelter with guard rails for devotees to form line when it is crowded.

The temple tower was built as a two-tiered Pagoda, Nandhi in front in sitting posture and to its left was a huge brass Trishul along with udukkai (dhamaru). There were Sannidhis placed to the right of Nandhi, but I didn’t pay attention. Approached the moolasthanam and got my three face Rudraksham blessed from the Dholeshwar. The priests in Nepal just place the items from archana thattu and place it near deity. They don’t do any archanai per se, unlike south where they ask for one’s Gothram and Nakshatram of family members. The lingam is head of Siva, in Nandhi avatar and the hump is said to be in Kedar Nath. This temple is one of the panch Kedar temples. Walked around and did namaskarams in the labyrinth to 108 lingams. Continued around, to notice Vinayagar and Hanuman Sannidhis, the Sannidhis that I had missed as I entered next to Nandhi.

Navagrahams were placed further down from Vinayagar, but the unique feature is they were not worshipped as idols/deities but as nine plates with unique 3×3 grid of numbers. This is something I’ve never seen anywhere in the South.

After taking pictures, it was about time to leave, I asked Karthi to accompany me as we sat near the shelter at entrance. Raghu and Anil were sitting there on chairs, I asked Karthi to follow Sivapuranam PDF on my phone while I recited. We noticed the ladies reciting Sivasthuthi standing near Nandhi.

As I walked out of the temple, noticed a couple of Sadhus perched on a thinnai around a tree. Not sure if it was an Arasamaram (peepal tree), but a small Vinayagar idol was placed, did pradhakshanam and exited the temple to get back to the bus.

Changu Narayan Temple

The temple is UNESCO World Heritage site, entrance ticket was 300 Nepali Rupees. I had cash and paid for Praveen, Bhuvana, Ram, Uma, Karthi and Raghu. We entered a red colored archway entrance and walked a flight of steps, that lead us to a street flanked on both sides with houses and shops. The buildings were painted in Red. There were a series of arts and crafts shops along way leading the temple. At one of the shops on our left side as we walked towards the temple and young girl was painting intricate Kala Chakra mandala. Was astounded to see her talent and steady hands.

The main tower is a two-tier pagoda, from distance it looked good. As I got closer, heard coo sounds of pigeons getting louder and louder. The steps around the prakaram were littered with droppings, I wondered why it is not upkept. This is a very old temple built sometime in early 4^th century AD. I couldn’t see the main vigraham of Narayan, it was dark, and the idol was small. The priest applied tilak on my forehead and walked around the prakaram, stepping on pigeon poop everywhere.

Next, we all went inside a small chamber, had to watch our head as we entered, to notice many avatars of Kali and a portrait of her; completely naked, she has her own head cut off and holding it in let hand and a sword on the right, while standing on a couple copulating. Blood is jetting out from her headless body forming 3 arcs. She (her head) was drinking her blood and feeding 2 other naked women. I have never seen such an imagery of Kali, something that’s seared now on the sides of my brain. Was perplexed to see relation to Narayan and Kali amman, Chinnamastha as she’s referred here. Later came to know that this is or became a Tantric temple. Walked around and noticed idols of JalNarayan, Ulgalandha Perumal (Vishwa Roopam of Vamana Avatar) and Narasimham. Many of the idols are in state of neglect and erosion.

Madhu called upon all to recite Vishnu Sahasranamam and we perched on benches and thinnai on the back of moolasthanam (main Sannidhi) to recite. While reciting I noticed a white guy taking videography of us. Completed pradhakshanam, and towards the end near the front entrance noticed headless idol of woman placed in front of a sannidhi, perhaps Chinnamastha. But the chamber was empty, not sure what to make of it. The main pagoda has wooden beams running from the eave to walls on which Dasa-avathars were carved.

It felt good, to recite Sahasranamam as group, but it didn’t feel like visiting a Perumal koil. Tantric practices are esoteric and not for everyone. I do not have the knowledge or intelligence to grasp its teachings but was stunned with the imagery and saddened to see such an ancient temple left for neglect.

We visited Bhaktapur, a city near Kathmandu with an ancient palace, a courtyard, temples and now several shops and small businesses. The city incurred heavy damage during last Nepal quake. We just took photos from outside, didn’t feel spending 3000 Nepali Rupees, though negligible in USD to see ruins. Instead decided to have lunch, Nepalese version of Thali; Thakali: Rice, runny Black Bean Soup, Pavakkai (karela) chips and curry, Papad and some Potato Curry and ordered buttermilk for drink. After lunch some of the members went to Bhaktapur, Karthi and I headed back to Hyatt for afternoon siesta.

Karthi and I discussed options to go for a hike the next day somewhere nearby to acclimatize or visit Kopan monastery. We had a whole day open and no plans to go anywhere. There were several hiking options, short 3-4 hour hikes that gains about 2-3k elevation. We had to be back in the evening for Tibet trip briefing.

September 13^th, 2024

Coincidentally, Praveen had planned a trip to Kopan monastery, and we tagged along with Madhu, Venkat and Maithreyi. The rest of the group went to Chandra Giri, a high point in the outskirts of Kathmandu about a couple of hours drive. Apparently on a clear day, Mt. Everest is visible from there.

Kopan Monastery

We walked to the office and continued to enter the monastery, it was quiet as a library – a sense of placating calmness and serene atmosphere pervades. Twiddled and fidgeted to open the big wooden doors, to notice a huge meditation hall and giant Buddha statue at the end. There were four rows of floor stools, draped with cushy cloth to seat and meditate. I walked around taking pictures, several Buddha statues were placed in glass enclosures with Hindu names, for example one of the deities was Alokateshwara! I do not know to meditate but sat there to recite all the slogams I know, which takes 20minutes, and can slow it down to prolong, starting with Sivapuranam. The pillars and ceiling were painted ornately and intricately with flowery patterns and Buddhist history. Stepped out to notice murals on Karma, kala chakra, life cycles, and stories that could not relate to, and violent graffiti too, dragons and lions and several other animal depictions etc.

As we walked back to main office noticed orange trees (saathukkudi) and down the walkway there were dorm buildings for the students and monks, off limits to visitors and guests. We met up with a monk and got into discussion on Buddhist culture, practices, life lessons, wisdom to share and what not. Whether we approach life with principles of Dhvaitham or Adhvaitham, intent is to connect with higher intelligence; however, in Buddhist practices each person aspires to be enlightened and become Buddha in his/her own right. Slight nuance, but I think both cultures emphasize on introspection and self-realization. Either way, it’s way above my head for my pea-sized brain to contemplate.

We bid byes, but the monk mentioned if we can wait a little longer can meet with the next Dalai Lama who’s in-training at the monastery. Waited to meet with a child barely 8 or 9 years old, the next Dalai Lama. It was a privilege to meet him and the thought, the immense responsibility on this kid’s shoulder to promote peace in such a conflicted region. Visit to the monastery ended up being better than I had anticipated, maiden visit.

We asked the monk if he has any advice for us as we embark on this yatra, “He asked us to focus on the journey, destination will arrive in due course”. Sounded like a quote out of Bhagavad Gita.

Thamel Shopping district

The rest of the day we were going to spend in Thamel, Kathmandu’s shopping district. We went to pizza place and ordered two pies for the seven of us. From there we split and agreed to regroup around 4:30pm at a main junction. Karthi and I went to nearby ATM to withdraw some Nepal currency and continued shopping. We entered a handicraft store and saw a couple of necklaces, funky style, snapped pics and sent WA message to kids asking if they like it. We went in different directions, I bought silk dresses for Kavya and Madhu, and matching Kurtha/Pyjama for Nava. As I walked out caught glimpse of Kurthas with Siva mantra and Om on them. Bought one for myself priced at 800 Nepali Rupees. I mentioned Karthi about the Kurtha, he wanted one too. Before going to the store to get him the Kurtha, we stopped at a store that had lots of t-shirts displayed on street side with iconography of our deities. Got 4 medium size t-shirts that had imagery of: Buddha, Shiva, Vinayagar and a Dragon, for Keertu and Chaitu, and t-shirts for Karthi’s kids. Pointed the store where to get the Om Kurtha to Karthi and walked around to check other shops. Madhu, Venkat and Praveen joined and wanted to get winter gear like gaiters, micro spikes and protective eyeglasses for the hike, I needed one too. Earlier when we had just arrived at Thamel, I noticed a mountaineering shop Black Yeti; we went there to get all necessary gear, I got category 4 rated sunglasses that cost $88. The rating is sufficient for high altitude UV ray protection, although it is not suitable for regular city use. Finished all our shopping and hopped on bus back to Hyatt.

Freshened up and went to Kirtapur conference room situated in the basement of annex building wing between the main Hyatt building and the Casino. Shailesh spoke for 2 hours, and Pritish was our interpreter, it was long, winding and boring prep talk, for the rest of our journey. By the time he finished, most of us forgot what he had said at the beginning. His inexperience to manage long trips was on full display. During my other long hiking trips, the guides will give us daily morning brief and if necessary one just before dinner for the next day, regarding what we need to do, pack for next day, and any weather advisory.

Shailesh mentioned, there was a lot of snow on the mountains and Charan Sparsh was closed off to visitors. Hence, we had to plan to additional day, place of stay and itinerary. There were several opinions going around, and one of them was to go to Darchen and spend the day. I was reluctant, especially for most of them this was the first high-altitude hike. Praveen was negotiating with VA group, and I mentioned it is best to stay at Saga or Manasarovar and use the additional day to hike around and acclimatize. We ended up deciding to stay at Manasarovar. We were also notified to not have any reference to Dalai Lama or pictures of him on our mobile phones.

On our way out we grabbed our bag pack, down jacket and duffel bags (275 &276) one each for Karthi and me. We asked if our laundry get be done somewhere nearby.

September 14^th, 2024: Off to Tibet

I had to repack since we were leaving to Kerung, Nepal side of Tibet border. I packed winter clothes like thermals and base layer, gloves, muffs, baklava, woolen and cotton socks, fleece and wind/rain cheater and other winter gear in my 20lbs waterproof bag. 2L hydration bladder, hand and foot warmers, nutrition bars and snacks and toiletries; all went into my 45L backpack. My brand new 750 fill down-jacket, sneakers and clothes for travel up to Manasarovar, hiking shoes and poles, and necessary electric & electronic accessories loosely packed into duffel bag.

Ram collected laundry bags from all of us and asked to pick up washed clothes at front desk next day.

Linga-Bhairavi Temple

Karthi and I took a cab to Isha foundation’s Linga-Bhairavi temple, asked the cab driver to wait and take us to Pashupathinath upon return. It is a small enclave, left our footwear at entrance and walked over synthetic carpet laid on loose fine gravel path. A pair; man and woman perhaps in their 20s were tending plants flanked on each side of the path. Bought an archana thattu at the entrance to a meditation hall. The structure was a single pagoda on top with two nagams on either side of central kalasam. There was a carving of what looked like a devotee lying face down, in sashtangam posture. Oddly, one leg was bent and the other straight with arms folded overhead and palms doing namaskaram. We entered the hall, and at the far end on the wall, Linga-Bhairavi was situated. The lady priest took our thattus and offered prayers. She sang like an apsara, not a slogam but like a Carnatic song. We sat in the hall to meditate, I recited Sivapuranam while Karthi was meditating. He had already left the hall by the time I completed, and I stepped outside. There was a Vinayagar sannidhi that I did not notice at the front and next to it in shelter, a Trishul was placed positioned in a tilt.

Pashupathinath Temple – Second visit

Pashupathinath temple was crowded for a Friday morning, that’s when I came to know Nepal does not follow Gregorian rather Hindu calendar and Friday/Saturday is weekend!!! Happenstance met a Tamizh guy who lives in Nepal, he just took us a little closer than to join at the end of a long line. He exchanged some arguments with some of the people who were already standing in the line, I didn’t pay attention but just headed along with him. Stood in line to enter the short ramp for darshan. Being an idiot-oblivious-habitual self, snapped a picture of the crowd on my phone forgetting camera use ban inside the temple. Immediately I heard someone yell and before I could react, the security guard snatched my phone and got aggressive, I pleaded that he could delete the photo and return my phone but only to fall on deaf ears. He said a lot in Hindi, I understood the gist of it, asking me to return to temple office after darshan and collect the phone. Karthi did not notice this; I went back in line to join him. Got shoved around in crowd, had good darshan once again and this time there was no flowery adornment on top of the lingam, I could only see the 4 faces. Karthi tried to convince me that on our first visit the flower arrangement was indeed the fifth face or the whole lingam with four faces collectively looked like the fifth face, but I was not convinced. I was looking for something alike to the Panchamukha Shiva at Shiva-Vishnu temple on Oak Tree Road. Continued my pradhakshanam, and at Surya Narayan sannidhi, the priest gave me another Rudraksha mala. I offered him some dhakshinam and noticed a much larger labyrinth with 108 lingams than the one at Dholeshwar. This time I took time to recite Sivapuranam to completion while I walked and touched each of the lingams.

I told Karthi that we have to go to temple office to collect my phone and narrated the incident. The security officer was speaking to someone on the phone. Wrapping up his call, he pulled the drawer and took my phone from top drawer and switched it on to see our family photo with Srirangam temple’s Raja gopuram in the backdrop. I was anticipating he’s going to behave like some attendants in TN and ask for money or bribe to hand over the phone. He was nice and kind, asked me where this temple is, and we exchanged pleasantries. He asked me to unlock the phone and checked the latest photos, there was only photo that I took, and he deleted it before returning the phone. I thanked him and we left back to Hyatt.

Upon returning I packed both my Rudraksha malas and the trimukha Rudraksham in my laptop bag and packed it my Samsonite hardcase. I left my hardcase along with others’, these were going to be held at Hyatt while we’re on our trip to Tibet. We met the rest of crew, 2 more guides Mohan and Roshan, a cook and couple of helpers. The crew helped loading our bags and we were off to Kerung, Nepal/Tibet border.

To Syabrubesi, Rasuwa district – Nepal/Tibet border

We boarded the bus and a little while later the group started reciting Hanuman Chalisa and other devotional songs. Along the way we saw a battalion of troops doing their morning workout, carrying heavy backpacks and marching in unison uphill with their regiment leaders in the front. The road was winding through small towns, agri pastures on both sides with tea shops and small convenience stores. The sights were just alike any rural town in India. Kathmandu was gradually disappearing as we got higher and higher on the mountains. There were towns all along the mountain slopes, perched precariously, a thought rung in my head for such a seismically active nation Kathmandu is so densely populated and growing. With Indian tectonic plate subducting into Asia, any minor quake in Himalayan highlands can bury these mountain towns. It’s a scary thought…

We stopped at a dinghy roadside dhaba for lunch, the Thakali had similar dishes as the restaurant we went to in Kathmandu. I suppose Pavakkai is a staple lunch item in Nepal, and here they had arisi vathal too (rice fryums), missed rasam, a meal is not complete without it. We continued on our drive, the roadsides do not have girders or guard rails to keep vehicles safe on the winding narrow roads. The margin of error is less than a foot, no wonder we hear about accidents, buses falling down a ravine or a gorge. In addition, I found the driving quite aggressive, the roads are narrow, and the driver was trying to overtake every vehicle ahead of us and would repeatedly honk until the vehicle in front gave way. The horn had a musical ring though. And sitting by the window didn’t help much either, it was nerve wracking. But can’t fret about much, I had beautiful views of cloud kissed mountains, waterfalls along the slopes, rivers and streams deep in the valley gorge. Every now and then saw several landslides, entire face of mountain sides crumbled. After a couple of hours, we stopped at a small tea shop, and there were public toilets for bio break. I mentioned to Ram Babu, to ask the driver to go easy on driving and no need to rush.

We were high up in the mountains and it was getting very foggy, we reached a check point with a sign board, entering Lamtang national park. It had instructions for hikers not to venture alone, but also stating diverse and ubiquitous flora and fauna. I thought it would be delightful to do a backpacking trip here. By the time we reached Kerung it was twilight, and it made sense why the driver was in such a rush. I wouldn’t want to be driving in those roads in nighttime, phew!

We pulled into Hotel Himalaya in Syabrubesi, the crew started unloading our bags. While waiting to get our bags delivered, saw children playing in the rain, singing and dancing, took video and pictures of them. Karthi and I got a room on the third (top) floor by the patio/open terrace. View outside was breathtaking, it was cloudy with a slight drizzle, gray clouds set a calm mood. Soon after Madhu and Venkat joined us, it started to rain, I opened Thattai packet I had brought for snacks, a cup of hot masala chai would’ve been ideal, but the company and chit-chat was good too. After dinner, we retired for the night and I woke up somewhere between 3-4 AM, Karthi was still sleeping, I stepped out, it was still dark and the roar of Trishooli river was musical. I could hear a rhythm as it gushed and meandered over and around the rocks. I started reciting Sivapuranam with the roar playing shruti. I moved in and out of semi sleep state a couple of times but completed reciting. Karthi woke up to do his meditation, Kapala bhati and morning Kriyas. The place did not have running hot water, the owner made an excuse about not functioning solar heater. For a guy who relies on tourists for income, he was not customer friendly, rude and condescending.

Next day morning, noticed everyone in the town, doing their morning pooja and perfumate their dwelling with sambrani. I recall Pattima used to do that when we were young, one of those ancient good practices that has gone wayward. We fancy expensive room fresheners, odonil or fabreeze and what not UGH.

Ravi & Vasavi, Praveen & Bhuvana, Madhu, Venkat and I went out for a morning stroll. Walked along the dirt road, on the right side of the road there was a helipad and noticed a white guy loading his bags. Inquired fare for the ride, $1600 for 4 to Kathmandu, cheaper and safer than taking the winding, landslide prone mountain slopes. Further down there was a switchback (hairpin bend) that took us to a bridge going across Trishooli river. At the head of the bridge there were mules standing, the place smelled like horseshit😊 Went over the bridge and took group and individual pics. The glacial melted white water was rushing below, upstream I could see 2 tributaries joining the river. Other than the sound of river there was no other sound, just serene calmness. We headed back to the hotel.

Breakfast was served, Chapati and Aloo subzi, the owner stood with tongs to serve, his demeanor reminded me of soup nazi from Seinfeld 😊 Our bags were loaded onto the bus, and we headed off to border for Tibet immigration.

September 15^th, 2024: Tibet Immigration

The ride was about an hour or hour and half, and the bus stopped near Nepal immigration center. We got our passports stamped for exit at a Nepal immigration counter. After bio break, we all started to walk the 1 mile or so distance to border. It was a dirt road, filled with puddles, littered with huge rocks, and gradually climbing towards the immigration center. I didn’t get my sneakers, walking in flip flops was challenging. We had to navigate in between buses and lorries and oncoming traffic.

We reached a bridge, Nepal and Tibet at either ends. Tibet side had neatly paved roads and clean. The contrast across ends of the bridge was like day and night. There were signs on Nepal border about construction undertaken by China and vehicles with signs stating Chinese sponsored. A China funded hydro-electric substation was being constructed down river from the border.

It was about 11AM (9AM Nepal), the border is in mainland Beijing time. A truck carried our duffel bags; there were bags with Isha Tours insignia on them. It was beaten down truck, with its bed near the driver carriage way up than at the rear end. Looked like if you add one more bag it will be the last straw that broke the camel’s back😊 After security checks, we walked over to the bridge and sat on the pavement halfway across. Anil introduced us to the Tibetan guide, Darji, who had our passports and a piece of paper with our names list. Each one of us were assigned a number and per the list and we were asked to wait for some time before the gate will be opened. By noon time we got the message that the center is closed for lunch and will open by 2pm, UGH. We shared our snacks; I had brought banana chips for the trip. While waiting we noticed Nepalese women (laborers) waiting along with us. One of the ladies drank water and threw the plastic bottle over the bridge down the ravine. But then the whole place was trashy, not that it justified her littering.

We were notified that the center was open and all of us headed to the gate and stood in line per the number assigned. Another group joined us, a mix of Desis and White folk. We waited inside the hall, some of us used the bathrooms to the right in the hall. The laborers were hauling the duffel bags, some carrying on their heads, some dragging huge sacks with multiple bags in it. We were called to form a line closer to immigration counter and went ahead of the other Desi group, when one of the men passed comments you cannot go, we were here before you, which was just a few minutes ago. As we got closer, I noticed a couple of Chinese guys on the left, these were the guys who will be checking our phones apparently for Dalai Lama references. I had sent all the pics we took at Kopan monastery to Priya and uninstalled Google photos as instructed. In addition, I placed my phone in one of the duffel bags and came to know it was Raghu’s later. I recall a conversation during our prep calls, the husband of the tour organizer mentioned he left his phone in the duffel bag, and it was not asked to retrieved for security checks. An hour had already passed, they had some surveillance issues since the cameras were not working. By the time we got to the head of the line and no phone checks were being done. In retrospect, I didn’t have to fret and hide my phone, oh well. The process was seamless, gave my passport, electronic finger printing was done, VISA issued and off to exit.

The process itself was just 5-10 minutes, but we had to wait in line for nearly 2 hours. Used bathrooms in adjacent building and were ready to board bus to get to Gyirong. Took some snaps around the plaza, the center is in an idyllic valley with river flowing to side and in the distance, I could see a waterfall that feeds the river. We all lined up in front of our bus for a group pic before getting into it.

Gyirong

Roads in Tibet were paved and clean unlike on Nepal. It was short, less than an hour ride to our hotel Xi Zong, Gyirong. Once again, the crew started unloading our bags, we were all put up in room on the third floor. I noticed how China is forcing their cultural superstitions onto Tibet, all the rooms started with number 8, ours was 8318 and the Wi-Fi password was 8888 8888. The town was new and clean, the lamp post had 8 lamps on it.

We left bags in our room and took for a stroll around town. Ravi went for a massage; Karthi and I walked around just window shopping. We came a town square, Pakba monastery was at the far end of the square, and to the right a street fair was held; children were playing in a big, inflated pool. We walked through the fair just looking through stalls selling food, handicrafts and clothing. We walked around couple of town blocks, before getting back to hotel for dinner.

The town is at about 8000-9000ft elevation; we were ~3000ft higher than at Syabrubesi. Dinner hall was on the 5^th floor and by now we could feel the elevation, walking up couple of flight of steps. Post dinner, we again went for walk around town to acclimatize. Stopped at couple of shops and saw knock offs of Northface, Eddie Bauer and other branded mountain gear selling at less than quarter off original price. When I inquired about the product, one store lady funnily quipped it’s made in China. We noticed people dancing in the town square and moving around a circle. A boombox was playing Chinese music. Just like southern line dancing, the dancers repeated a sequence of steps, Madhu and Venkat joined in the fun. We might’ve walked around a couple of times before retiring for the night.

Pakba Monastery

We agreed to meet early in the morning and get some exercise walking. We walked for an hour or so and wanted to visit the monastery. We went inside and sat for meditation, and as usual I started with reciting Sivapuranam and continued with various slogams. After completing exited the hall and walked around the two-tiered pagoda. There was a kiln like structure, inside it herbs, incense and lichens were being burned giving out pleasant aroma. Our group members were adding vegetation to the fire, and suddenly out of nowhere a group of monks came and pulled Karthi for a photo. He was the chosen one 😊, the monk taking the pic turned around and asked me to join in their group pic. We were stunned and speechless for a moment. One of them went inside and brought women monks to take a pic with Karthi, felt proud to see that. Praveen took a group pic with all of us. We dispersed when the senior monk pulled me aside, shook my hand said something in Tibetan and asked another monk to take our pic. I did not know what to make of it, wish I used google translator to converse with him. So many thoughts, maybe he wanted to take pics with US citizens who can empathize with Tibetans under Chinese occupation, perhaps my RED colored wind cheater made me stand out, or maybe there’s something deeper than my shallow thoughts, we’d never know. It was a heartwarming moment though, and we left with smiles and happy laughter back to hotel and off to a long bus ride to Saga.

September 16^th, 2024

Crew loaded the bags, we got on, VA group recited Human Chalisa and we were off. The ride got steadily climbing up, I had to pop my ears regularly due to pressure inversion. We went through many sequences of switchbacks; it was hard not to frown upon big Chinese symbols and much smaller Tibetan letters below them, on the sides of the mountains. Sad to see ancient culture gradually being replaced by invaders and occupying overlords.

However, the terrain and vista were breathtaking and grandiose. At one point we were high up and noticed the winding switchbacks snaking far below into a wide-open valley. The view stretched as far as eyes can see, in the distance I could see first band of snowcapped Himalayan mountains. We reached a summit point at about 19000ft and the driver pulled to the side of the road. There were these colored flags strung and stretched in many directions from a single mast and one of those Buddhist conical structures like the one on Swayambhunath temple was erected. Took some snaps and panoramic pics, just stood there to absorb the grand 360 view. A pile of yak horns was placed on the side, don’t know the significance of it. Boarded bus and continued onward on our drive.

Drove down the valley to a plateau, and after some time pulled into a gas station for lunch and bio break. The crew comes in truck with food, groceries and cooking implements; for some reason the back of the truck was tarped in camouflage. There was no shelter and each one of us found corner wherever there was shade: next to the parked buses, under a sign board and what not.

Saga

It took us nearly 8 hours to get to Saga and we got to New Chunda Hotel. Once again crew offloaded bags, checking in and settled into our room, Karthi and I were in room 321, I think. From the lobby we walked through an atrium, passed restaurant style seating booths to get to elevators. The place looked like something out of a Chinese underground setup that you’d see in crime movies 😊

Saga is at about 16000ft and I could feel shortness in breath. The room was tiny with 2 twin beds and even smaller bathroom. We got down for dinner, occupied one of the booths which comfortably seats 8. Though it was mildly lit, the walls and pillars were decorative and ornately carved. Right after dinner we went to room to sleep, exhausted from the long drive.

Manasarovar

Finally, the day had arrived, we were heading today to Manasarovar. To my dismay found out there’s no running hot water, and for the first time in my life showered in ice cold water. Just like all those years ago when I took a dip in the cold lake early in the morning, across Melmaruvathur Adiparashakthi koil. After a quick shower, got ready packed and was in the lobby in no time. After a quick breakfast, we were on the bus and on the road. It had become a routine, unload -> settle in new room -> eat -> walk -> sleep -> load -> Karthi and I recite Sivapuranam -> get on bus group recites Hanuman Chalisa and other slogams -> reach new town and repeat.

September 17^th, 2024

We could see Manasarovar in the distance and a chain of white snow-clad mountains, anticipation was building. Each one was pointing a different peak as Mt. Kailash, the excitement was effervescent. I used my peak finder, and the app showed the direction of Mt. Kailash, I pointed at the peak and sighted it first, or so I thought. Darji mentioned it is the peak behind the one I had located; it was cloudy, and we couldn’t see THE MOUNTAIN. We were going to do a parikrama, driving around the lake and as we curved around the lake, we could clearly see Mt. Kailash. The distinct central groove like back of a spine; we were looking at the south face of the mountain. It was an emotional moment, but we couldn’t see the full mountain yet. The summit was veiled with clouds, apparently it was not visible for the past couple of weeks due to cloudy weather. The driver pulled into a junction, and we got off the bus, I stood on a small ledge built on the side of the road, took pictures and group was elated. Truly a once in a lifetime opportunity. We continued driving down the dirt-gravel path and stopped at a place to get into the lake. We were instructed not to dip into the water as it is prohibited and against the law. Got my flasks filled with Manasarovar theertham and stepped into the cold lake. Make a bowl placing palms together to collect the cold sacred water and poured it over my head, to feel the warmth cleansing me! Just then, I heard people shouting, “Raghu NO”, turned to see him in dhoti running into deep water and dipping in completely. The guides were not happy about, the rest of us took pictures, I took one in Bhagirathan tapas position: Vrkshasana – tree pose; standing on one knee and the other bent, with arms doing namaskaram over my head. I asked if anyone would like to recite Sivapuranam with us (Karthi and I) Ramesh and Bhavani joined it.

We stood facing Kailasam, alongside each other, the mountain was still partially covered, the summit not visible. I shared my PDF with Ramesh and closed my eyes to recite Sivapuranam. I sang in my usual tempo, visualizing every word in my head as I recited. We finished singing and I opened my eyes, to notice the veil of clouds slowing moving away and the summit clearly visible. We couldn’t ask for a better moment, felt quite blessed to be there at the right time and moment. I could see the ridges on the mountain forming a Swastika symbol, it was quite overwhelming emotionally. We all cried out in unison, OM NAMAHSIVAYA! Sahithi was like, you all are crazy. I was fighting tears and closed my eyes to hold them in. The initial rush abated, I sensed my breath and my heartrate slowing down. Just stood there in silence taking in the moment and watching symbolically Mt. Kailash emerging from Manasarovar.

We drove around and reached a scenic spot, where a boardwalk was constructed. Lake Manasarovar was on one side and Rakshasthal on the other side. Unlike Manasarovar, Rakshasthal is devoid of life, water so briny that life cannot form or sustain. While both are glacial lakes, it is perplexing how polar opposites are these two geological formations. For some reason no one goes near Rakshasthal, and we didn’t go either. I wish we got close to touch and feel the water. We continued, on our drive and reached our habitat for night stay; I wouldn’t call them towns or campsites. There were new buildings painted in white and gleaming, and then older mud houses, dirty with cracks and face peeling off the walls. Our bus pulled in front of one looking directly at the lake, which was a couple hundred meters away. Did the usual unloading and settling into room. Karthi, Madhu, Venkat and I shared a room. I unpacked my 20lb bag, outside was cold and I needed my mid-fleece layer. Packed my flip-flops and put on my woolen socks and hiking boots.

To the left of our mud house in the distance we could see Mt. Kailash; it was blissful, the moment was surreal. Went to the lake front to spend some time, the sky was clear with some stars visible, the FULL MOON was rising from behind the mountains. There was a gentle cold breeze, the water was still, making it look like a milk pond with moon’s reflection. Sat there contemplating the past, thankful to people, culmination and amalgamation of experiences, practices and habits, ups and downs, mistake and corrections, that brought me to this very solemn moment. I have seen my fair share of people, more capable and intelligent than I am, go wayward and astray. And yet I was there, the forces to make it happen must have started a long time ago somewhere in some past life, per law of Karma or it is just a cosmic coincidence. Either way, I had a deep sense of gratitude and immensely blessed. We were at about 15000ft, no birds or insects chirping, the place is quiet and calm, serene and meditative. I could sit there where time stands still.

Walked back to our tea house for dinner. We were discussing stories about Gandharvas coming down to lake as light descending from sky. I was skeptical, but many have reinforced the same story, not that it makes it a truth or factual. So, we decided to go back to the lake between 2-4AM to check it out. Karthi and I woke up around 1:30AM and went to lake all bundled up, Raghu joined us sooner, we presumed it was him, since we could only see a silhouette. We stayed there till about 3-3:30AM, didn’t notice any ET behavior, we recited Sivapuranam and returned to get some sleep.

September 18^th, 2024

Late in the night went out with my trowel and bidet, dug a hole behind our house to take care of business. Others followed, and I advised to do the same and not let soiled tissues out in the open. Treat the place like a camp site, leave it cleaner than how you saw it, especially this is a sacred place. Went back to sleep, to wake up to morning bright sky. Stepped out to brush teeth to notice a sign board in Thamizh, pleasantly surprised to read the tea house was donated by a family from Avadi, Chennai. After breakfast, Karthi and I went to the lake shore to recite Sivapuranam, post then took pics with Mt. Kailash placed in between us in the far distance.

Praveen had arranged for a priest to do Thithi, we all gathered around the ritual fire to do obsequies to our ancestors, Appa’s and Amma’s lineage and Appa and Amma’s sisters, and anyone we had forgotten. We asked for a tray and used our samagri items that we bought at a store near Pashupathinath temple. Content to perform this ritual here in Kailasam!

There was a Buddhist monastery on a hill near our habitat, perhaps a mile’s walk to the top of the hill. We headed there for the afternoon, the pathway was fenced, and we walked near and around trying to find a gap, but eventually walked around the fence and got on the paved path to the monastery. Karthi and I recited Nirvanashatakam as we headed up. Breathing was tougher at this altitude. We entered the shrine to notice a monk reciting prayers, implicitly I started recording and he waved to not record. Sat there for my meditation, well in my head recited my slogams. Walked around the monastery, panoramic view was breathtaking from the top. We were in a valley, surrounded by snowcapped mountains, Manasarovar and Rakshasthal and tea houses. We spent some time meditating and then headed back down to our tea house. Praveen was joking about Karthi’s endearing treatment by the monks at Pakba monastery, he had joked a few times now and I sensed Karthi was not taking in fun stride. Pulled him aside and gently mentioned to let it go, the joke loses funny connotation if said multiple times 😊 We spent the night and headed to Darchen the next day morning.

September 19^th, 2024

Load, Hanuman Chalisa, and unload, we reached Sui Chai hotel, Darchen. The sky was clear, and we could see Mt. Kailash, the snow packed southern face was clearly visible. Chinese men smoke a lot, UGH and especially this place, the hotel lobby wreaked of nicotine, like a dirty ash tray. Every time I had to walk across the lobby, I held my breath, it was that bad.

As soon as you enter, to the right a model of Mt. Kailash marked with inner and outer Parikrama path was placed. Felt the shortness in breath as we climbed a flight of stairs to our room. Post lunch, some went to Thirthapuri, where Basmasuran was vanquished by Vishnu in Mohini avatar. And the rest took an SUV to Ashtapad, a place where Saptharishis attained samadhi. Also sacred to Buddhists and Jains. Rishabdev first Jain theerthankar attained enlightenment here. We sat there to meditate with Mt. Kailash in view and Nandhi hill in front of it. I was flabbergasted to see natural formation looking just like a Nandhi placed right in front of Mt. Kailash. As we drove back, stopped along roadside, carefully treaded and stepped on boulders and rocks to reach a gentle stream flowing. Spent some time there immersing ourselves in nature, in the distance we could mountain chain full covered in snow. Our driver said they sacred mountains to the Tibetans. We got on the car and went back to our hotel.

During dinner we met a group that returned from Parikrama, one of the ladies mentioned that Dolmala pass was snowed out closed. Our tour guy shared a WA video of people sliding down in heavy snowed out trails. We were all bummed out to hear the news. We were told for now we might be able to get up to Dirapuk and then make call to continue Parikrama. At least we get to see North face of the mountain, Charan Sparsh was closed for visitors. I was so looking forward to getting there and be able to touch the mountain.

September 20^th, 2024

For the next 3 days, we carry just our basic clothing and necessary snacks and med kit in our day pack, we leave our duffel bags back at the hotel. We drove to Yamadhwar (Yama’s gate) and from where parikrama begins. Aidheegam (ritual practice) is, when we walk through the dhwaram, one leaves behind their physical self and spiritual self enters Sivalokam aka Kailasam. We do pradhakshanam 6 times and not complete the 7^th, we walk through the dhwaram and continue onward to parikrama.

Dhirapuk

After taking snaps, Karthi and I headed off, we decided to reach Dhirapuk in hurry, to give us enough time and daylight and an opportunity to get to Charan Sparsh. We were not even few yards into the path, noticed a Buddhists doing sashtanga pradhakshanam. I was in awe, here we’re fretting about walking around the mountain and this man was going to prostrate around it, PHEW. I can’t wrap my mind around it, the effort and dedication it takes to embark on such an endeavor, further up noticed a family with two sons, Dad was talking to second kid, no more than 5 or 6 years old. The sight of people from all walks of life, young and aged, different fitness levels, some on ponies was heartwarming. Karthi and I kept our pace ahead, talking about life, childhood days, stories and what not. As we got deep into the valley, I turned back to notice the sacred Tibetan mountains at the far end, Yaks grazing on cliff faces, far high up on one of the hills colorful Buddhist mantra flags fluttering. The valley looked like the dry bed in Andes, on our Day1 hike to Base camp, Aconcagua. An hour or so into our hike, I noticed a place with Buddhist shrine and mantra flags on the side. There was an altar kind of rock formation, upon which a people lay down to do namaskaram looking towards Mt. Kailash. I did the same when I got my chance and asked one of the guys there to take a pic of me. As I continued walk along, saw a man in White dhoti (panchakacham) and shirt, with backpack and a walking pole. Karthi was maybe 5-10 mins ahead of me, I could see him in the distance, after a while I took a break to hydrate and a bite of snack. Couple of Tibetan ladies passed by and one of them asked if I had any food, in my packed lunch there was samosa; I handed it to her. She took few steps noticed what I shared and returned it 😊 I had the same feeling who packs oily samosa for such a hike. I caught up with Karthi, he had taken a break as well. We reached a fork in the path, one going up a hill and the other around it to the left. We took the left to avoid climbing up thinking the paths would merge. As I walked around, a Chinese lady walked by and struck a conversation. She was from Hong Kong; I exchanged my travel story at the airport. We talked about careers and family. She mentioned how mainland Chinese are taking up all critical jobs and senior level positions. Native HK residents are not even considered for promotion regardless of skill or experience. I was just listening to her plight and wondering how bad it would be for Tibetans under this regime. We parted byes and walked ahead; I joined Karthi to notice that we must climb up a short hill to catch up to the path that we avoided earlier.

4-5 hours into our hike we ran out of food and for the rest of the way we were running only beetroot water. We were in full ketosis mode, burning all the fat reserves I add during this trip. I ate way too much than my usual capacity. I could see small tea houses along the path in the distance, and a town at the far-left side by the hills across the row of tea houses. The hiking path split through the houses. We reached Dirapuk around 3:30 pm and sat for few minutes, to catch breath and rest legs. At this point both of us are running in empty tanks. But the sight of Charan Sparsh energized us and we started climbing.

Charan Sparsh

We could see most of the North Face and I pictured (as in pictures) Shiva in a sitting posture and where his right foot would manifest at the bottom right corner of the face.

Said “OM NAMAHSIVAYA” to myself and we started to ascend. I starting walking up in switchback motion, to avoid the straight up climb. Along the way met 4 Telugu speaking ladies and took pictures for them. After about 15-20 minutes, became flattish landing space, sat there briefly for water break and continued on. There was greenery and no trail path to climb, continued straight up and turn right ward to reach a Buddhist shrine with mantra flags. Beyond this point the path turns left and it was rocks and boulders to navigate a steep inclination towards Charan Sparsh. Took me another 5-10 minutes to reach the rocks and boulders and continued on the path, saw people ahead and some descending. The sun was still shining bright, and I switched to, one breath for each step to slow down my heart rate as it got steeper and hopping over boulders. I could see a stream flowing through and under the boulders. There is no trail path, it was like River of rocks in PA, Hawk Valley Mountain but at a steep inclination. Karthi was a few steps ahead of me, we caught up to a young Telugu couple I presume with a guide. It is not race, but the guy suddenly took to steps and wanted to get there before us. The girl couldn’t keep up to her husband and sat down every few steps, but I felt like they got compelled to reach ahead of us 😊 I just kept at my pace and continued on.

After about 30-40 minutes saw another Buddhist shrine with Mantra flags stretching from a Kalasam like feature and noticed a trail further up. I traversed to get to the path and could see almost entire face of the mountain. I was getting emotionally charged as we got closer to the top. Finally, after about an hour and half we reached a plateau and could see the entire face of the mountain in the distance, perhaps still a quarter to half a mile away.

The picture of Shiva in a sitting posture inscribed in the semicircular’ish feature of the mountain’s face is seared on the sides of my brain. I visualized it all along since morning when we set off. As I neared the excitement started to build up further, I sat to calm down as my heart was pounding by the grandiose sight of the face of the mountain. Suddenly my eyes started tearing up and breathing got heavier. Started to recite Sivapuranam, but my voice was trembling, and my whole body shaking. As the saying goes, “திருவாசகத்திற்கு உருகாதோர், ஒரு வாசகத்திற்கும் உருகார்”, those who don’t melt to verses of Sivapuranam, will not melt for any other poetry. The connotation is difficult to translate to English exactly. Especially when you let the verses resonate inside you:

பொல்லா வினையேன் புகழுமா றொன்றறியேன்

புல்லாகிப் பூடாய்ப் புழுவாய் மரமாகிப்

பல்விருக மாகிப் பறவையாய்ப் பாம்பாகிக்

கல்லாய் மனிதராய்ப் பேயாய்க் கணங்களாய்

வல்லசுர ராகி முனிவராய்த் தேவராய்ச்

செல்லாஅ நின்றஇத் தாவர சங்கமத்துள்

எல்லாப் பிறப்பும் பிறந்திளைத்தேன் எம்பெருமான்

In right moment, reciting Sivapuranam can evoke strong emotions, and to summit any mountain is exhilarating and to be at the spiritual center of universe, was immensely blissful. Combination of both put me in a state of flux of emotions, charged up. My eyes were flooded, face drenched in emotions, was trying to sing aloud but choked up unable to even utter a word. After a few deep breaths to calm down, I completed Sivapuranam. Just sat there in awe admiring the beauty, the grand sight and immerse myself into the mountain (metaphorically), for it has taken a lifetime to get here. Noticed Karthi was perched few meters behind me on a rock, asked him to join me, we just sat there for some time to meditate. I do not know of any of our family members who had been here but was thankful to all who those who inspired and made me aspire to achieve this feat!

It was already close to 5:30, thought of going closer, but decided not to since wanted to get back down before it gets dark. On the way back asked Karthi to fill my 1L water bottle with the spring from the mountain and we headed down. The shadow of cliffs to our left was getting longer, we walked past the Buddhist shrine now on our right side and further down saw Madhu, Venkat, Praveen and Bhuvana coming up. We met with them, to let know they were at least an hour if not more away from the plateau at top. Madhu, Praveen and Bhuvana continued, but Venkat decided to come down with us, took pictures for him and continued on our descend. We got beyond the next Buddhist shrine to the final slope to get to the main parikrama trail and tea houses, when met up with Anil walking up to fetch those who went up to Charan Sparsh. He was concerned, Charan Sparsh was banned to visit; a couple of days a Chinese tourist had fallen into a crevasse near the mountain face and his body was never recovered. We white lied him that we were up to Buddhist shrine and returning. He mentioned that Darji was furious since they couldn’t locate Raghu, and no one knew where he was and wouldn’t answer phone either. Anil was going up to fetch Raghu and others, while descended down.

By around 6pm we got to the tea house, and our group had already settled in. Karthi and I were left with the remaining beds in the walkway near the entrance. As I was removing my shoes, Venkat accidentally emptied his water bottle on my bed, but Anil was quick to find a new one. There were 3 rooms, our group had taken the 2 on the left side and the third was occupied mostly by Chinese Yatris. About a half hour or so later, Madhu, Praveen and Bhuvana returned, and sometime later Anil came with Raghu. It was still bright outside; I could see Darji furious asking Raghu why he left without letting anyone know where he was. Darji could get his business license revoked had something happened to anyone of us. In retrospect it was irresponsible, but I made a calculated risk with so many hikes in my bag, not to do anything stupid.

Adjacent to bed there was a room, like a closet with bedding and blankets and stuff. I used it change clothes and a dry wash. Darji asked us, Karthi, Raghu and I to take beds in the room with Chinese and we moved our stuff. After dinner we all settled in but there was no control to switch off the bright light in our room. Pretty soon Raghu went to sleep and started snoring like an old rundown coal burning locomotive, Karthi nudged him a couple of times but then would start again. The Chinese couple woke up in the middle of the night and speaking loudly and making too much noise, I blurted out asking them to keep their voices low, just too tired and not able to sleep was frustrating. We have big day tomorrow to head up to Dolmala pass. Finally, I got some cat winks, but woke up around 3AM to step out to attend nature’s call. The sky was clear, and near full moon shining bright making the place luminous. I had my head lamp but didn’t need it as it was so bright. Took long exposure pictures of the mountains and the village and headed back inside.

By around 5AM, Anil gave us alarm call to get ready. I woke up from my disturbed night sleep to brush teeth and some chai. Filled my 2L hydration pack with beetroot water, 1L Kailash theertham, and another flask with warm water. I was carrying 4L of water in addition to my clothing, and other gear in my bag. It was heavy but nothing I was not concerned. We started the second leg of parikrama, Karthi was in a hurry and sped ahead. I asked him to stay along since snack pack was with him. The sky was lit early morning sunshine and The Kailash now glowing golden. I recalled the song,

ஆயிரம் கரங்கள் நீட்டி அணைக்கின்ற தாயே போற்றி!

The mother was hugging the mountain and me together!!! Venkat and I took some snaps and marched on. At a distance saw a mom and daughter, barely 5-6 years old walking ahead. Passed them and about an hour or so later, felt the bag was getting heavy and was slowing me down since I was controlling my breath to not let my heart rate speed up. Pretty soon I found myself being alone, I emptied half of the Kailash water and continued on. Perhaps restless night was tiring my already tired legs. I was treading up a slope and Ram walked beside me, he pointed we have to go up the path that was turning right and take the switchback at the end and ascend the steep incline, from where we can see the high point of Dolmala pass. That was at least an hour away, it felt like I was lugging my bag. The path was crowded, at one point I stood aside on the right of the narrow to let a mule carrying a tourist to pass by. The worker who was leading the mule brushed against me hard it almost knocked me off balance. Fortunately, I positioned myself, or otherwise it would’ve been quite a tumble into the valley below. I was really pissed at the worker, he sees me near the edge and yet pulled straight into me, instead of going around. However, I realized can’t expect safety from others, just have to mind where you are before a mishap happens.

After taking the switchback, Mohan one of the guides came to my assist and took my bag. That was a big relief, and felt like a ton lighter, and paced ahead. Soon I met up with Madhu and Venkat and reached the high point at Dolmala pass. Took some pics at the high point, rested for few, had some snacks and water and continued on downward descent. I noticed an elderly grandma at least 80 years old, frail, her face wrinkled and gentle smile as she walked past with her grandson or perhaps a private guide. The moment was so heartwarming to see an elder making this arduous path, I recalled the grandma who walked up Parvathamalai, uttering OM NAMAHSIVAYA for every step as she ascended the tough terrain back in TN. మనం ఉండే మార్గం, where there’s will there’s a way.

The path down was very narrow, partly icy and slushy and I slipped at one point to laned on my rear. A woman behind me screamed out terrified, I acknowledged her, stood up and walked downward. I could see, GauriKund in the valley, it’s distinct green hue shining bright. We asked Mohan to get us water from the pond since we’re not allowed to stray from the trail. As I continued further down, I heard meditative Buddhist music playing a shrine setup overlooking GauriKund. I took some time to stay with my eyes closed and be in the moment, it was peaceful. As I descended further down at places where we need to step down, noticed a Buddhist doing his pradhakshanam in upward direction along the slope facing Mt. Kailash.

The trail opened to an open area and gently sloped down where it meets a steep drop off. I could see tea houses at the bottom of hill, there was family of youngsters, cousins perhaps sharing laughter and stories while catching a break. I saw the familiar places, those that I saw on the trail yesterday while walking towards Dirapuk: the man in White panchakacham and shirt passed by, the couple of Nepali guys I saw at the altar like place where I bowed to the mountain… Glad to see happy smiling faces as we were close to end of parikrama.

I reached the bottom and perched on a boulder to rest, removed my base layer clothing, snacked on another energy bar when I noticed a couple of Buddhists complete there pradhakshanam parikrama. Both did their final bow laying down facing towards the mountain murmuring some mantra, stood up and removed their hand and knee pads and quietly walked toward their belongings to rest. I thought I was tired but got fully energized seeing them and walked towards the tea houses.

I headed to the large wooden gate entrance to the rest area, that housed a dining area, a large room with several beds for the sick, tired and frail to recuperate, a convenience store and bathrooms. As I got closer noticed one of our group member Sita having hard time to breathe; a guy from one of tour companies was trying to help her. I went to check on her and she started vomiting, tired, dehydrated and exhaustion. Gave her some water and took to the dining area, where we noticed other members from our group. They had finished their lunch; I ordered the only vegetarian option; Bok choy with steamed rice. I was so hungry that I just inhaled the food in no time and was hungry for more. Anil, Ram and Mohan joined us soon and got soup with chicken or something in it. I asked Ram to get me a veg soup; found that the noodle in cooked in broth (didn’t ask what kind), and dried meat is added from a separate packet. So, just had plain noodle soup. Rested and refreshed, went for a bio break and washed my face and neck with cold water.

I noticed Ramesh’s face sun burned, unlike the day before I forgot to apply sunscreen. Smothered my face impatiently with sunscreen and effects of it lasted till the next day. My eyes started burning severely and watery, couldn’t open to see and it was getting worse as time progressed.

At first, I thought it was probably because my sunglasses, feared that the store sold a knock off labeling it category 4 proof. I remember Marco, our lead tour guide from Aconcagua trip warning how one can lose vision temporarily due to UV exposure, and the effects can last for a couple of days before recovering. But then you’ll have to get admitted to a hospital and attended to by doctors, or else risk the damages to be permanent. I was literally scared to my skull that I would do something so stupid. I washed my eyes to no effect, and kept my eyes closed and just sat in a corner. Soon after we got kicked out of the restaurant, to make room arriving guests. The afternoon sun was too bright for me and covered my face with sunglasses on. Some of the members were looking to get a cab to go back to Darchen, while the rest started walking towards Zutulpuk. As per original plan, we were supposed to get to Zutulpuk, spend the night there and walk halfway towards Darchen before we get picked up to driven to hotel.

My eyes were burning so bad, I stayed back to get on the bus along with Pritish, Pragya, Bhavani, Sahithi, Sita and her husband. We had to exit the rest area and walk about a mile or so before coming to a stop where the cab will pick us up. Sahithi was kind and walked along with me to ensure my safety, I would stop every few steps or so, take a brief wait, close my eyes to relax and then repeat the same until we got to the stop area. We waited there or at least a couple of hours if not more before getting on the cab, a Toyota Roadrunner. We drove past Madhu, Ravi, Venkat and Karthi, but didn’t notice Vasavi.

We pulled into parking are of the stay house at Zutulpuk, Pritish, Pragya and Sita’s husband got off and the rest of us were going to Darchen. As our driver was pulling out of parking lot, one of the guides with the other desi/whites group waved asking us for a ride. Adding a passenger is a hassle per taxi rules there in Tibet, the driver called someone in center office to get approval and allow the guide to ride along with us. The road was bumpy, rocky, muddy, and slushy at place like the road near Nepal/Tibet border. We were rocked both sides, eventually got to our hotel in Darchen. I asked our duffel bags to be delivered and went to room to shower and clean up. I washed my eyes over and over again for the next half hour or so until I was able to keep it open with feeling the burn. It was a big relief to be able to see clearly. Went down to meet the rest of group and had dinner, came back and crashed.

Back to Kathmandu – September 21^st – 23^rd

The rest of the group arrived around noon’ish next day, Karthi, Ravi and Ramesh came to room to shower. We all headed down to get on with 3-day return trip to Kathmandu. I took snaps with individual families and the crew; Madhu was the last the get to shower and had hassle the hotel crew to get a fresh bar of soap. He came in late, but by then we all had settled in the bus, so no standalone pic with him. Said byes to Darchen and took one last long good look at Kailash and we were off.

About a couple of hours later, suddenly Karthi screamed, “Anna I left passport in your room”. I asked him to relax and check through all pouches in his carry on bag. Moments later, he found and was gleaming; Sahithi had recorded the whole episode. I bet Anita takes care of all his personal needs, he’s much worse than me in forgetting things; super short short-term memory. We drove back to Saga, then to Gyirong, got through immigration and onward to Kathmandu.

Notable moments on return trip

Day 1: drive from Darchen to Saga, we pulled near a water body, a meandering stream though a meadow for lunch. We met with another desi group, some of whom were from VA.

There was friendly banter between Kamal and Rajini fans, Kamal fans quoted many a memorable movie and his character and role played, while Rajini fans were arguing how his style and quirky behavior is enough and no talent is needed to impress them 😉

At one of the lunch break areas, we saw a road barrier with spikes made of sharp rebars sticking out of it. We were joking which psycho road inspector designed this cruel contraption to barricade a runaway vehicle.

Day 2: I came to know that Vasavi runs a at home jewelry business: from design to final product. During lunch on the 5^th floor dining area in Gyirong, I was sharing her story and pics of funky jewelry I took in Thamel and how I got shot down by Keertu and Chaitu. The women laughed, also Vasavi mentioned this it’ll well with funky dresses, she was just being nice. She suggested seeing some good jewelry stores nearby that I had noticed too, during our onward journey. Checked out a few stores and bought “Xinjiang Hotan Jade” bracelets for both the girls.

Ravi shared story of him feeding what looked like meerkats or gophers and pics of them mobbing him for nuts or food. During a lull period when the whole was quiet, I shared some word puzzles for all to play, Uma and Sahithi sportively participated to solve the 40 or word/pictogram clues. Somebody shared, how one of our group members had to be literally carried down the mountain, SMH. Apparently, Praveen and Bhavani fell of the mule, fortunately neither of was injured or maybe escaped with minor bruises and scratches.

Day 3: On the morning of immigration to Nepal, while we waited met an 80 yr. old Thamizh Thatha, Srinivas from Florida. Good times chatting and exchanging stories with and took a group pic with him. Their Tibetan guide hitched ride with from Zutulpuk to Darchen, since one the tour members met with an emergency. The tour organizer was waiting with in the line, mentioned that the elderly mother had passed away upon returning to Darchen from Parikrama. That just shook us all, we remembered the mom-daughter duo waiting in line at immigration center during our onward journey to Tibet. The tour organizer also a Sri Lankan Thamizh, mentioned that he has been doing this for past 2 decades and has visited Kailasam over 14 times, that’s impressive.

We stopped at the same break area to have masala chai and Parle G biscuits. There were couple of stray dogs that Sahithi started feeding. Next stop was at the lunch dhaba for Thakali and finally back to Hyatt, Kathmandu.

It was a delight to have dinner at Hyatt, and this time I sampled all the desserts. Praveen and Ravi had beer and asked if I’d like to have, I told I quit as part of preparation to Kailash Parikrama, they had some Nepali beer. We asked Ram Babu, if we can get Paan somewhere nearby, unfortunately it is a bit away from hotel and we’d have take a ride. I noticed Shailesh and Raghu hovering around me, and after dinner they approached to ask if Raghu can share the room with me. I pulled Shailesh aside and told how loudly he snores and that I needed some good night sleep. I would’ve shared if it was not for his deafening snoring.

Karthi had a late night flight to catch back to Canada and Sahithi was flying to London to meet up with her younger sister joining college. Bid farewell to all and retired for the night.

Chennai: September 25^th – October 4^th

I packed my hiking gear, clothes and gifts I got for Priya, Keertu and Chaitu, bundled dirty hiking clothes separately in plastic bags and stuffed them in Samsonite suitcase. Packed for Chennai trip in my 45L hiking bag and my laptop. After having one last heavy breakfast at Hyatt, I was off to Tribhuvan airport. I requested the person at check-in to allow me to carry my flasks with Manasarovar theertham, along with me and he agreed that it shouldn’t be an issue. He warned me that I might’ve to check my bag in Delhi due to stricter security policy. After boarding the flight, I realized I should’ve requested for window seat to be able to see Mt. Everest. A young couple sat next to me, the man was watching Ring of Fire, second season and we struck conversation. I had already watched it prior to leaving for Kailash trip. As we flew over Himalayas asked his wife to picture and video of mountains aerial view, unfortunately Mt. Everest for clouded over.

Landed in Delhi and went through security and immigration and no issues to carry on the flasks along with me to Chennai. While waiting in the concourse, had veg burger and filter coffee at one of the food shops before boarding flight to Chennai. Forecast was rain expected; Suchi mentioned it is easy to take metro and get off at Koyambedu station. However I wisely chose to take a cab, a heavy downpour started before we even got to Kathipara junction and getting worse resulting in traffic jam. Reached home late, met Madhu and Navi; gave them their gifts. I forgot to pack the cotton pants I bought for Kavya and Madhu. Placed the theerthams, Rudraksham malas and trimukha Rudraksham on pooja shelf and did my pooja. A moment of silence and thanks, the pictures of deities that adorn our pooja shelf, the Vinayagar manai, vigrahams and idols have witnessed my journey since birth.

Our apartment complex in Anna Nagar is under re-development and Mom had to move temporarily to an apartment near Suchi. She had boxed many of the deities’ pictures from our pooja shelf, especially Appa’s painting of Murugan sitting on Vinayagar’s lap. A painting, I intend to bring to my home in US someday.

Kapaleeswarar Koil – September 26th, 2024

I wanted to complete my yatra at a place where it all started nearly 45 or 46 years ago. My earliest recollection of visiting Kapaleeswarar koil, was when we lived above Thatha’s family in Alwarpet. I would join Thatha’s family and walk the 3km or so. I can still picture that one devotee, who was unable to speak standing in for of Murugan Sannidhi and repeat, mu-oo-aa (Muruga) over and over swaying side to side like singing His namam.

I hired a driver and was there by 5AM. Vendors were opening their shops across the temple, and a Mami from a nearby house stepped out to clean the front of her house and draw kolam. A sight I haven’t seen in ages, a habitual practice from ancient times. Just about then, some random guy walked by, and people around seem to recognize him; to me he looked like Unnikrishnan, and I took a pic with him. He introduced himself as a Thamizh serial actor in one of the popular shows: Bhagyalakshmi, and he plays a villain role with two wives.

My college friend Kiran was staying at a hotel in Teynampet and joined me, he mentioned that he had not been to the temple since the 80s. As soon as I enter, Vinayagar Sannidhi is straight ahead, as you do pradhakshanam, there’s Karpagambal and to the right of her is Moolasthanam of Kapaleeswarar. Morning ritual of first pooja to Pasu (cow) and her calf, then abhishegam to Vinayagar and then to Moolavar. People carried Utsavar around the temple during the poojas. Abhishegams was offered, and we all sat to recite Sivapuranam. I was picturing myself to be near Charan Sparsh but also wanted to be in this moment and take it in, it was festive. After the poojas we all moved to Amman Sannidhi for abhishegams and poojas.

I went to Moolavar, asked the pujari mama, to do archana for the Rudrakshams and asked him to wear the trimukham on me. Saw a couple sitting and meditating near the Sannidhi and I joined them. While meditating, I felt brief warmth, I suppose pujari was sending harathi towards me.

I did my koil pradhakshanam, there’s a sannidhi for Arunachaleshwar, Kala Bhairavar, and other Shiva sannidhis, and towards the entrance adjacent to Vinayagar is Murugan. I left the temple premises and went to popular Rayar Mess for breakfast, my maiden visit. Fresh and hot: Idli, Ghee Pongal, Meduvadai, Masala Dosai and Chennai’s authentic filter coffee.

September 29^th, 2024

I had asked Chithis, cousins, nieces and nephews to join me for lunch at Woodlands, Arumbakkam. Gifted shirt and trousers to Arun and gold bracelet to Supriya. Came to know that Shanti mami turns 60, it ended up a trifecta party celebration: Kailash trip, newlywed and Sashtiapthapoorthi. It was nice to share laughter, relive happy memories over good food. A lady over at next table was all happy smiles to see our large family of nearly 30, meet and she offered to take pictures. After lunch we all stepped aside and took groups of pics in front of the beautiful garden. We hadn’t met in a long time, I offered theertham and rudraksham to all and parted goodbyes, till we meet next.

It was nice to spend time with Kavya, Madhu and Nava, we went for dinner along with Kannan, Suchi and Amma to a roof top restaurant called pods. Booths were setup like igloo pods that seals us from outside noise for quiet dinner. Thambi Anna and Anni came to visit, and spoke to Chitra Akka, Dosi Akka and Sridhar Anna, who had survived recent health scare of some kind of brain aneurism. Spoke to Athai who is 95 years old now, she complained I should be there in Thanjavur taking care of her 😊 Sweetest person just like Pattima. Kumudha Akka was in Thanjavur, and we exchanged our stories, she had been on Ramayana trip to Sri Lanka.

Kannan and Suchi were kind enough to take me around for health checkups and found out my knees cartilages are worn due to excessive hiking, and perhaps Lyme disease made it worse, SMH. I need to get back to basic in physical training and strengthen my knees.

In the meanwhile, before leaving on this trip I took up a new contract with Citi and as agreed with my manager, I logged daily evenings to work while in Chennai and get acquainted with team. Days were winding down and I had to pack up again and leave for Kathmandu, and then the same day back to US. The month long trip was blissful, eventful and memorable.

Kathmandu – October 4^th, 2024

Said bye to Mom, Suchi and kids came to gate to send me off to airport. I had right side window seat on my flight to Delhi and could see the Kartavya formerly known as Rajpath leading to Government offices and Supreme Court and the iconic ring shaped Parliament house. The new Parliament was not visible, or I couldn’t locate it. Further down at the end was Rashtrapathi Bhavan. Took a few pics, all blurry due to Delhi smog. Immigration was seamless to Nepal. Earlier while checking in at Chennai, I specifically asked to for window seat on the left side of the plane so that I could get a glimpse of Mt. Everest. Fortunately, the weather was clear, and the mountain range was clearly visible. Took a lot of pics of all the high mountains that breached the clouds. Later on, I used Google, to identify the high mountains: Dhaulagiri, Ganesh and of course Mt. Everest. Elated to have seen the mighty Himalayas from atop, was in awe how high these rose, to cruising altitude of Jets.

My tourist VISA was valid for 30 days and walked straight outside to meet Anil who was waiting for me. I had already contacted Shailesh to make travel arrangements for the day. Went to Hyatt to get my suitcase, after some minor re-packing and freshening up at the hotel, went to visit Pashupathinath temple for one last time. Stood in line to get darshan of Moolavar, the Moorthy was in impressive alangaram, flowery ornation. While doing pradhakshanam, noticed a few people rotating a stone near Ganesh sannidhi. I must’ve missed it, or since it was crowded no one attempted to rotate it, during my onward journey to Kailash. The pujari at Ganesh tied me sacred thread on my wrist, I now have two of them, the other one from Surya Narayan during my last visit.

I entered the labyrinth of 108 lingams, surprisingly no one was there. Once again, I started walking slowing while saying Sivapuranam and this time a bit louder. As I got to the center where there’s a sannidhi, a pujari noticed and asked me to step in. He asked me to sit near the lingam and performed archana, I stated our Gothram, names and birth starts and also for Kavya, Madhu and Nava. Thanked him and gave him some dhakshinam, while stepping out I bumped back of head at the top of entry way. The priest made kind comment that Shiva does not want me to leave. I was already in awe of the experience, I have been to so many temples so many times, never had such a personal experience. Absolute elation to have had this awesome blessing, a cosmic divine coincidence, or was it?!!!

From there on, asked the driver to take me to Thamel for some more shopping. But first I had a nice lunch, Thakali at Jasper restaurant along the main street that leads into shopping area. Post lunch went to the get another OM Kurtha, saffron colored and a Hemp handbag for Priya. And then it was off to airport and back home.

The entryway into airport was crowded and the security was allowing passengers whose flights were scheduled within an hour of departure. I was able to get in maybe because of US passport, my flight is not for another 3 hours, at 11PM.

The in bound Cathay Pacific flight was delayed, which delayed my departure by 2 hours. We boarded the flight, but due to technical snag delayed further by an hour. Finally, around 2AM we departed and landed in Hong Kong, terminal 1. I spent some time there walking around, window shopping and had lunch the food court had better options that at terminal 3 during my onward travel. Took connecting shuttle train to terminal 3, to board flight to NYC.

Tokyo – September 5^th, 2024

About an hour into the flight, I went to bathroom and while inside heard a loud thud. Thought someone had dropped a suitcase from overhead bin, stepped out wondering no one was hurt. To my dismay saw passengers and crew trying to pull a man outside from adjacent bathroom on the other side of aisle. One of the hostesses, started giving a Chinese man CPR, he was a large guy. We were somewhere over the Atlantic, east of Tokyo. Some of us were chatting if the captain is going turnaround and request medical assistance. But he kept flying for another hour or so, by now the crew were taking turns in giving him CPR. After about an hour and half, the pilot announced that he’s turning around to get to Tokyo. One of the passengers was a nurse and she joined to give medical assistance. They brought all kinds of on board medical equipment, that had never been used before. The nurse somehow found a vein and administered IV. By it was more 2 hours and the crew still giving chest compressions, we could only pray for his wellbeing. The crew were trying out devices that had never been used, at one point I could see one of them reading a manual while the other start application on the unconscious passenger. There’s no way anyone could’ve anticipated, but the crew should be trained to use all necessary medical equipment onboard the flight, it’s life or death situation. After about 3 hours, we landed in Haneda International Airport.

Medical crew boarded, administered oxygen mask and removed him from, then after we were asked to deplane. The airport was empty, we had to claim our baggage and check in at Hotel Villa Fontaine for the night. After a brief wait in line, immigration was quick for US passport holders, loaded my bags on luggage cart and walked towards the hotel within airport complex. Met a fellow passenger, a LI’er, it was his first time visit to HK on a business trip. Who never had to travel for business, ironically his partner had other commitments this time.

Checked into room and set alarm for 8AM local time, I wanted to make the best of the opportunity and go for visit in town. The toilet bowl experience was everything and better experience than what I had heard😊 Checked out around 9AM and took a cab to Ginza, posh shopping neighborhood. The door man got me a cab and the fare was $50 for a half hour ride, just like NYC. The driver was friendly and spoke reasonably good English. Exchange stories about Tokyo and NYC, the highways and streets were cleanest I have ever seen. I have been to my fair share number of big cities around. He dropped me off at an intersection two major arterial road in Ginza. I was shocked to see so many brand showrooms and shops, most of the names in French. I walked into a mall, just to check some women apparel or purses and decided not to waste money. The prices way more expensive that NYC for the same branded items. Stepped out and walked around, back streets and lanes and doing just touristy things. Saw a bunch of restaurants in the basement of a side street and stepped one of them Zakuro Ginzaten for lunch. Never had such tasty sushi before, miso soup tastes so much better and steamed fish with white rice. I could eat more, but the bill was ringing up already and I wanted to save my appetite for dining elsewhere too. Spent about 3 hours maybe, got a cab and back to airport.

We were asked to check in bags early in the afternoon for 9PM flight to NYC. While waiting met a Chinese girl from Queens. Her’s was a similar story, she was flying in from mainland China after visiting family, but she did not want to travel out of Beijing since the layover was longer than wait time in HK. We laughed at weaving stories from different passengers how interesting our meetups ended. Bags checked in, got same seat assignment and we said byes. I had a tempting thought to go back to Tokyo, still have more than 6 hours to kill, but then I had already spent more $200. Decided to stay and lounge around in the airport. Haneda airport has an observation deck on rooftop, I don’t if there’s any other airport like that in the world. Loaded my backpack and laptop onto a smaller pull cart. I thought, that was smart after checking you don’t need the same size of cart as before checking in with larger suitcases and what not. Went up to roof top, the vista was majestic, in the far distance to my left I could see hazy greyish downtown Tokyo. To the right a unique donut shaped building. Got coffee and sat near perimeter wall and spent time seeing airport alive. Planes landing and taking off, pilot vehicles pulling planes in and out of gates, workers loading and unloading bags and directing planes. It was in a sense meditative and didn’t realize couple of hours had passed by.

Went back inside and was ready for another round of sushi. The terminal had a mall with shops and restaurants, setup like Edo, former name of Tokyo. Went to a restaurant Ariso Sushi and once you enter, you’re given what looks like writing pad and place it near you. I ordered several pieces of sushi, I ate like how we eat here, mix wasabi in soy sauce and dip each sushi in it add ginger on top and eat it. The chef corrected me on how to eat Sushi, he mentioned the correct amount of wasabi is already added over the rice under the sushi and served. Not all sushi has to be dipped in soy, but then it is individual preference and never add ginger. Ginger is supposed to had after finishing meal, it is a cleanser and enables digestion eating raw fish. I ordered several sushi and could’ve eaten more 😊

Had to kill at least a couple of more hours before boarding, shopped around and bought Hello Kitty to Chaitu and just sat around. Boarded plane and finally landed in JFK. One man’s misery paid for my free one day vacation to Tokyo, in whole an eventful vacation one for a lifetime. Took Uber, Mohammed was my driver and came home. Chaitu was excited to get Hello Kitty, Keertu was in her apartment.

Placed theertham and Rudrakshams in pooja shelf and rested. Joined work next day at Citi HQ, 388 Greenwich St. That evening, went to see Keertu and gave her Jade bracelet, spent some time with her telling stories and showing pics. A few days later visited temple to recite Sahasranamam and offered them theertham and Rudraksham, journey to Kailasam was more blissful that I had ever imagined.

Epilogue

I’ve aspired to become the people who have inspired me all my life, especially my four pillars including their flaws and added some of my own. The past few years has been to undo and correct the flaws and still a work in progress. Hiking in the woods alone has evoked contemplation to rectify some of the flaws. Tree hugging week after week has enamoured this sense of change in perspective, seeing life in woods go through seasons to flourish and bounce back to life.

The trees have withered away life

Dead in sight having shed and wilted

And the fallen, decaying

Absorbed into dirt and filth;

Everything living metamorphoses

Seeks a path to flourish

Free of hindrance and blemish

Unshackled and uninhibited

And I cocoon into my concrete shell

Knowing will not emerge

Transformed or enlivened

Still fear not to shrink

In form, shape or energy

The mantra taught from very early on in life; procure and protect, and repeat it over and over to no end in sight…

The path to this materiality

This illusion has been fraught

Laser focused and meditative

To a point of single thought

Acquire and amass

A life taught and instilled

Sown to sate self and surroundings

Though I cherish time bygone

Feel the frailty of misguided priorities

Weakened by experiences and possessions

Erstwhile suffocating the air out of my breath

As I meander this myriad of reflections of kind

Fortunately, hiking has been a reprieve, a course correction, to my life’s banality, to take a pause from this rat race and step out from being this caged hamster on a wheel…

Like the changing of seasons

World stopped with its mundanity

A fracture illumed to what becomes

Tread a path tangential

Embrace a new life

Attune with mother nature

I say a prayer to myself

Give my lungs the strength

To take me aloft high summits

Give my legs the strength

To carry me far and wide

Give “I” the strength

To be simple and humble

Give me strength to break free

To be wise and recourse

Give my soul strength

To see SELF

Give me strength to escape

This material world

Interest in hiking and to visit these iconic places and the experiences is immensely humbling. I hope Pashupathinath or Jal Narayan or Shakti keep me in check as this life’s journey continues on to a few more or who knows many more, until no more!

ॐ नमस्ते अस्तु भगवन्
विश्र्वेश्र्वराय महादेवाय
त्र्यम्बकाय त्रिपुरान्तकाय
त्रिकाग्निकालाय
कालाग्निरुद्राय नीलकण्ठाय मृत्युंजयाय
सर्वेश्र्वराय सदाशिवाय
श्रीमन् महादेवाय नमः

ஓம் நமசிவாய

← My Yatra to Mount Kailash: A Journey of Profound Transformation

Prologue