Have you seen God.. Its Out There. Where. On the Mountain of your choice.

For us, It was Aconcagua. It takes effort, fitness and fortune to reach it, to be One with God. 

And so it Happened. 15 Doeres embarked on this journey to Summit the mountain of Aconcagua – physically the tallest in Amercias at 22,837 feet. Being not in India, its just called a mountain, however it were to be in India, it would certainly be revered as God or Godly with pilgrimage treks around it. 

The journey was long and tough. Almost 1 year of preparation, lots of time and money spent and sacrifices made along the way. Did we Summit.. Did we become One with our God, Yes and No. The Mountain Decided, the God decided, how far we could be with it.

We have climbed many mountains – from Tammany to Kilimanjaro. Each one had a significance at some point in a climber’s life until we reached its summit and looked for a bigger mountain, a bigger challenge, a bigger God to be with. In Indian scriptures, the God lies in the Mountains. Why? Its the Energy Source, the energy of the Cosmos comes through it. Mount Kailash is one example, where scientifically its proven to possess superior energy convergence. Every mountain, big or small has a energy source for every one, manifested in various ways.

To reach the Summit of Aconcagua, we engaged the services of ‘The Mountain Guides’, our caretakers on the mountain, or the Priests who would take us to the abode, the Summit.

The journey to the mountain  started on a good note with experienced guides. Had a Gear check, rentals and stuff and off we were. Its a trekking journey to the top of Aconcagua from its namesake park entrance. Technically there are 5 stops enroute to summit via Normal Route: 

1. Park entrance (2950masl/9680 ft) to the camp of Confluencia  (4km, 4 hours, 3390 masl/11122 ft)
2. Camp Confluencia to Base Camp (aka Plaza De Mulas, 17km, 8-10 hrs, 4370 masl/ 14337 ft)
3. Base Camp to Camp 1 (aka Camp Canada, 4-5 hrs, 4950 masl/16240 ft)
4. Camp 1 to Camp 2 (aka Camp Nido De Condores, 4-5 hrs, 5570 masl /18274 ft)
5. Camp 2 to Camp 3 (aka Camp Colera, 4-5 hrs, 5870 masl / 19258 ft)
6. From Camp 3, SUMMIT to Camp3 ( 9-12 hrs, 7km, 6962 masl/22837 feet)

(Note – Trekking time range is appx and varies on conditions of trekkers and weather, distance between higher camps is not mentioned as it varies on trails chosen – there are short and long trails, elevation is appx, official and personal gadget measurements may differ)

From low altitude (sea level upto 8000 feet), we operate normally as the atmospheric pressure is within the range for humans to get enough oxygen (reference below on the physics of Oxygen). As we move higher up in the altitude, Atmospheric pressure is low, oxygen in the air is more dispersed  and less oxygen gets into our bodies, hence our bodies have to work harder to function. From 0 feet elevation (sea level) to reach upto 22837 feet is a tremendous undertaking for the body. Is it doable, Yes. How? Acclimatize – get used to Low Oxygen. Other alternate or supplemental ways are by taking medicines such as Diamox, Sorojchi or herbal supplements as beet root juice n stuff. Also, making the lungs stronger at sea level by specific breathing exercises is another way to improve the climb and acclimatization.

Acclimatization: Air and Water 

Simply said acclimatization is the body getting used to low oxygen still performing the chemical and biological duties to sustain life. However in the process, the pace of doing things slows down, energy efficiency goes down, walking slows down, breathing effort increases and more effort is needed for doing normal tasks.  

The real way to acclimatize is to be able to work at low oxygen levels and increase air intake. This is accomplished by 2 fundamental ways – By going slow while breathing deep and by drinking more water.

Breathing deep is done via nose breathing and it’s a challenge for many or most. Usually athletes such runners, swimmers breathe from the mouth. Many folks with breathing issues breathe from the mouth or machine assisted. Breathing from the nose takes a lot of practice and effort. There are many yogic routines to practice this and we had sessions conducted to do it. Breathing via nose also regulates the pace, keeping it slow and steady and not fast and stop.

Water is another important ingredient. We are expected to drink 3-5 ltrs of water everyday on the mountain depending upon different climbing zones and health conditions of climbers. Also, the mountain is very dry with no moisture in the air. With water comes frequent peeing and becomes a real issue while on trail or camp. More water also interferes with stomach function and increases loose motions. Therefore, ability to drink and retain water in the body is also a challenge.

Diamox or NOT

Deciding to take Diamox or Not for acclimatization was a constant question on everyone’s mind. At briefing by the company at Mendoza, it was recommended not to take Diamox and acclimatize naturally. Still, not everyone was convinced. We made a decision/recommended that we will not take diamox until reaching Base camp and will only take ibuprofen for headache. However, upon reaching Base camp, we learnt that women have taken diamox and not too much worried about frequent peeing etc. Men had not taken Diamox until base camp. Then, a consensus emerged for men to take diamox from Base camp. Some of us took half a dose in the night and lo and behold, we had to pee 3-4 times in the night. It was the end of the Diamox experiment for men and we stopped it. It was a good decision. Men did not take diamox and some did not take ibuprofen. They acclimatized well.

Debate will continue on the use of Diamox or not, however if acclimatized gradually, Diamox is not needed.

Climbing between camps

Climbing the mountain is the real reason we are here. These are acclimatization and climbing hikes between Camps. We had the following ascending (modified) schedule:

1. Park entrance to Camp Confluencia
2. Camp Confluencia to Base Camp
3. Rest Day at Base camp
4. Base camp to Camp 1 and return
5. Rest Day at Base camp (additional)
6. Base camp to Camp 1 and stay
7. Camp 1 to Camp 2 and stay
8. Rest Day at Camp 2
9. Camp 2 to Camp 3 and stay
10. Camp 3 to SUMMIT and Return

Though the normal itinerary recommended by expedition companies is 18+2 days, we choose 14+2 days in January end due to our work/family priorities. 18 days is recommended for better acclimatization at lower camps below Base camp. Itinerary above the Base camp is the same/similar for all treks.

The rationale for choosing 14 days was that we work hard back home to improve our breathing strength and lung capacity, thereby speeding acclimatization. Some did, some did not and it was evident on the mountain.

Trekking Sections

Following were our trekking section, some spanning multiple days:

Section 1: Park entrance to Confluencia

It is nice, easy walk of 4Km, elevation gain of about 1400 feet to the camp of Confluencia. It took 4-5 hours. In the beginning we had views of the Aconcagua summit and then the trail ran along Mendoza stream and lower mountains. The trail was dirt and gradual elevation. We could see Helicopter was making frequent trips, buzzing close to the trail. Around 5, we had a nice reception and medical checkup at 7pm for Oxygen saturation and Lung test. All came out fine except one with unrelated issue.

Section 2: Camp Confluencia to Base Camp (Plaza De Mulas)

This is the longest day of the trek, distance wise. Trail length is 17km, elevation gain of 3200 feet. Normally its about 8-10 hours of hike in. The group started around 8am and last ones reached about 6pm. The trail passes through a flat basin (also called Big beach). It crosses many streams that are normally hoppable. At one point, I had to take off my boots, and cross with crocs that I had hanging off my daypack. The trail stretch is beautiful with tall mountains on either side for the basin. It reminded me of the Kailash Kora trek. We kept moving at a steady pace until we reached the lunch spot. After the lunch spot was a steady climb. Here the elevation climb to the Base camp was about 2500 feet, was the toughest part of this trek section. All were able to complete it, some easier than others. There were some narrow, steep and slippery sections towards the end which needed some help.  The guides assisted where required. Some folks were lost on the trail and returned to the main trail later.

Section 3: Base Camp to Camp 1

This section is the start of High Camps trekking. Usually this section is done twice. 1st time for acclimatization (Climb High and sleep low) and 2nd time for actual stay at High camp. The Guide took us through winding trails so we could acclimatize slowly to altitude. This is expected to take 4 hours which we took about 5 hours as a group, some faster than others. It was a strenuous climb, slow but steady along the dry, dirt, steep trail. The lead guide was setting a moderate pace to match. Some climbers came back super tired and had some altitude symptoms and the guide decided to keep another rest day for the group at Base camp. After a rest day, we climbed to Camp1 again for a sleep over at that altitude. All were okay by then. 2 climbers with Altitude symptoms had to be medically evacuated via Helicopter.

Section 4: Camp 1 to Camp 2

At camp 1 stay evening, we were hit by a snow storm which meant our Camp 2 journey was to be in the snow. We were asked to wear mountaineering boots and went on to hike up. We were to do it only once and not coming back. Again, the guide took up via long switchbacks so we could acclimatize slowly. Trails were all snowy, mountaineering boots had a good grip on the snow and we were able to get up there, some sooner than later. Some folks were really really exhausted. They did not feel continuing further as it was hard mentally and physically on them. Also, another medical checkup was done at Camp 2 to check the vitals and for some it did not come well, which prompted their journey down to Base camp next day. We had another rest day at this camp. 3 climbers called it quits at Camp 2.

Section 5: Camp 2 to Camp 3

After the departure of 5 climbers in the group, we were left with 10. We prepared to climb to Camp 3. Left the camp in the afternoon with sunny skies and half way through, it started snowing. The trail was a combination of a narrow traverse on the slopes of the mountain and switchbacks to acclimatize slowly. We had worn our mountaineering crampons which made it easy to get a good footing on the snow trail. A moderate pace was kept by the lead guide and some were able to follow. A few of the group climbers were slow. There were small breaks every one hour. The group reached Camp 3 in 4-5 hours. Some of the climbers were totally exhausted. There were whiteout conditions for the folks who reached later.

Section 6: Summit Round trip from Camp 3

This section is the ultimate test and reward of the entire expedition. Summit is about 4 km from here but can take 7-9 hours on the ascend. This is also the most challenging, difficult and dangerous section. It has many exposed and steep sections with no support to hold if a slip happens.  The steepest section of the Summit trek is up and down the Canaleta (from above the cave), the last 800 feet to the summit. Winds can cause frostbite and loss of balance. Besides higher altitude can further cause HACE. The climbing pace slows dramatically. During our time, the trails were snowy and icey in many places. Ice is caused by fluctuation in snow surface temperature where snow melts during the day and freezes in the night. Also, blowing snow in the wind exposes ice underneath. Several deaths and accidents happened in recent past due to multiple factors in and around this area.

The guide had made a determination earlier that Feb 8th would be the right day to attempt summit, starting 4am. 5 climbers in the group were told to be ready by 3am for breakfast and subsequent Summit push. We got ready, had breakfast and started the summit hike. However, there was something else in store of us. The winds were fierce in the early morning hours and it caused quite cold conditions for the body though we were amply insulated. About 45 minutes into the hike, one climber complained about feeling cold and was ready to turn back. In the meantime, we saw some rescuers returning from the summit in the night, apparently helping out with some rescue the previous day. The lead guide consulted them and in a little while decided that we will have to turn back due to treacherous conditions on the trails. 

This is was the end of our Summit Attempt. We reached about 20500 feet. The dream to summit took a back seat for safety. The whole team accepted the decision. The team returned to camp 3 and slept over. The Guide decided, The Mountain decided – The Summit was not for us at this time.      

Weather on the mountain and camps

Aconcagua mountain is in a high desert and is extremely dry and cold, especially above 6,000m/ 19,685 feet.

Weather changes dramatically during day and night and as we go higher up in elevation. It was super shiny and hot at the base camp during the day, however it got cold in the evening and night. With the wind, it would feel colder. Theres about 8-12 degrees Fahrenheit temperature difference between higher camps. So, if it was 30F at Camp 1 it was probably 10F at camp 3 at the same time. With windchills, real feel was much colder. 

We had a wide variety of weather. From super hot at the base camp to about 3 inches of hail and snow when we stayed at Camp 1. The storm at Camp 1 was dramatic as loud thunderstorms roared over us for about 2 hours in the evening, though we were securely ensconced in our tents. At the same time, it snowed probably 6-8 inches on higher camps where we were to go next. After the storm, some of us came out of our tents and the landscape was dramatically beautiful. All the mountains around us were white and Sun was clear and beautiful. Sunset around 9pm was awe-inspiring dipping down the layers of clouds and mountains towards the horizon. It was a beautiful sight to behold (Pics in the album link at end). It got super cold in the night, dipping below freezing.

Next day was Camp 1 to Camp 2 climb. Due to new snow, it was a cold morning. Temperature must be in early 30s. As sun arose, it got warm. We were required to wear the mountaineering boots but with no crampons. The snow was expected to be fresh and soft.

From Camp 2 to camp 3, we were asked to wear the Crampons due to heavy snow on the trails and it was a bit of task for as many had not tied n worn them extensively. It worked out well eventually as no one stumbled on it.

Weather on Camp 3 was brutal when we were approaching it. We started under bright clear skies around noon and half way it started snowing, Many who were behind had to encounter white out conditions. They were literally saved with the guides help and support. Evening temperature must be in 20’s with windchills lowered real feel.

Weather can be unpredictable with no clear time and accuracy of forecasts, so we have to be prepared for different conditions during the trekking time. In some cases, we may have to abandon the climb. It eventually happened on our Summit day when unexpected High winds and wind chill forced us to abandon the Summit push.

As said earlier, Aconcagua mountain is very dry and with no vegetation. There is no moisture in the air. This is a real issue for outsiders. Dry air parches mouth and skin and needs more water and moisturizing lotions. 4-5 ltrs of water is expected to be drunk.

Day in the life of Camps

Climbing to different camps enroute is a few hours in the over scheme of things. However. bulk of the time is spent in “camping” –  Eating, sleeping, re(de)organizing, (un)finding, forgetting, toileting, readying, planning, strategizing, surviving are part of camping, at tented lodgings on the trekking path. There are temporary camping shelters at various stops, base camp being the largest. In our case, we had large dome tents, with folding cots at Base Camp and small 2 person 4-season tents at higher camps. Food is provided by the guide company, so it was not an issue to cook. Base camp has a large Dining tent whereas higher camps, you get the food from the kitchen and eat in your tent. 

Base camp (Plaza De Mulas) is a small mountain town, with many tent colonies by different trekking companies. It also has a helipad, a medical facility, art gallery, a cafe etc. There is no shop to buy anything. Each company has its own bathroom and shower facilities, some better than others. We had a decent bathroom facility and paid showers. Lodging tent housed 6-8 sleeping cots. Wifi is available for a cost from some providers.

Due to  the nature of the logistics, between different camps, climbers luggage is carried in different forms. We had to transition our stuff in different bags 7-8 times. This consumed most of the time and also a source of aggravation. More on that later in the article about logistics. 

Being cold at camps (unheated/tented facilities), doing normal things is an onerous task. While on High mountain, peeing is very frequent.  In the night, going from a warm sleeping bag to a cold outdoor toilet is a painful activity. Sometimes, peeing itself could be 2-4 times in the night. Hence, a pee bottle is an essential accessory and at high camps use it discreetly with your tent partner sleeping and not spilling in your sleeping bag.

At high camp, there is no toilet/outhouse, not even a seat to sit unlike Kilimanjaro (only point of comparison for us).  So, pooping is done while laying a poop bag, squatting, standing and cleaning yourself up. ugh. This was the most painful activity and a new skill to be learnt. At High altitude, in the cold, out in the open rocks or in a tent shelter, if you were to poop 2-4 times (some, due to stomach upset), it is very painful and aggravating. This was the harshest activity to undergo in the higher camps. 

At higher camps, since we are in 2 person tent, its quite an effort to do things within the tent with so much of stuff. A volume of about 100-150 ltrs stuff (clothing, gear) in various shapes and forms has to be managed in a small space that is shared with another person. It is quite an undertaking. Also, due to condensation, stuff get cold and wet inside the tent.

While in the tent with other person, known or not, snoring is also an issue. Waking up, tossing, turning, churning are real issues when someone is trying to get a good night sleep. Also, there is no electricity/power/lights in camps/tents. Doing things in the dark with or without headlamps is also a skill to be known.

At High Camps, setting up the tents is the climbers responsibility. We saved ourselves the work of setting up tents by a paid service to set the tents and dismantle and pack at each camp. This would have been a big and painful task, had we not known of this activity prior to be done as part of our duties. Setting and un-setting/packing 4-season tents after a climb and in tough weather conditions is certainly an arduous task for the non-expert, hence using a paid service was a good decision.

Climbing a mountain is not just hiking from point A to B to Summit, its about surviving a mountain life in camps, taking one day at a time, slowly and cautiously. Any moment can be disruptive and can jeopardize the climb. A common chore can be an undertaking. A high altitude camp life teaches a slow and steady lifestyle, taking one moment at a time.

Medical Fitness and Health Issues

Medical checkup by the park authorities is essential part of the process to assess the fitness of the climber for higher camps. It happens first at Camp Confluencia, then at Base Camp, Camp1 and Camp2. If all the vitals are good, you are ok to process to next camps. If something is wrong for future camps, you will be kept under observation. It happened with one of the group members that some medical test was was not right at Confluencia and had to stay at that camp for additional day while rest of the group proceeded to next camp.

Main things checked are Oxygen saturation level, Blood pressure and Lungs clarity. If you are diabetic, a high sugar level or glycemic index is alarming. Remember to take your medicines and keep it under control. If you have sinus issues, it may hinder breathing while breathing in cold air or low activity, prepare accordingly.

Doctors have the final say on the mountain and the guides abide by that. The park permit need to have a clearance from the camp doctors upon checkup. There are doctors who hike up and down the camp and observe the trekkers. Also, the guides report climbers unusual activity due to insufficient acclimatization to the doctors so they can recommend evacuation. Two of the climbers in our group did not acclimatize well from Base camp to Camp 1 section and had to be medically evacuated. Symptoms of low acclimatization could be very slow speed, disorientation, hallucination, shouting, etc. as if someone is drunk. This is a great danger on the mountain where a half misstep could be fatal on the narrow trails and steep rocky slopes.

One person in the group had vomiting issues but was allowed and braved enough to be at Camp 2, however had to be flown back to the park entrance. Many of the folks with acclimatization issues were given an injection by the mountain doctors.

Many underlying medical issues are exposed at higher camps. If you have high glycemic index, blodd circulation may be low and you may feel very cold at your extremities. If you have unusual blood pressure, you may not be allowed or asked to rest extra days. If Oxygen saturation is low, you will not be allowed to proceed further. Some climbers had a Diarrhea problem which required taking some medicines. Having Nausea is not uncommon which can be address with common medicines.

Besides health issues, mishaps can happen causing bodily injuries or maybe life threatening. As in a group, any mishap can be a negative impact. Someone in the group slipped in the bathroom of a hotel prior to the climb. The person braved enough to climb until Camp 3 but enduring a lot of pain throughout the climb. Similarly, non-expected accidents can happen if not paying attention to the everyday activities. Some infection can also derail a climb. Blisters are common in early part and may accentuate higher up.

Luggage and Food Logistics

On the mountain, for higher camps, we have to carry in and carry out everything, including provisions for food, water and poop. There are 7-8 transitions/handovers of personal luggage and food in our case where we opted for a Personal Porter service beyond base camp.

1. All luggage (AS IS from flight) is transported to Penintentes, where we stay overnight in a lodge/apartment type accommodation. Accommodation is provided by the tour company and do not have a choice. Penintentes is a small transit and Ski town (in winter) enroute to Chile’s Santiago.
2. Sleeping Bag and mattress is required to be deposited to go to Confluencia camp. Rest only 20 Kg of  stuff is required to be deposited in Duffel bag for Mule transport from Penintentas to Plaza De Mulas (base camp). Climber carries a change of clothes and toilteriers for Conflunecia camp. At Penintas, we keep all the Extra stuff we bought on plane. For example, if you got 2 suitcases Checked in, technically you are reducing to 1 suitcase worth of stuff.
3. At Confluencia camp, if you only have a small backpack for the small hike, you don’t have any luggage transition as the main duffel is transported to base camp directly. There is no shower here, so no getting ready per se. Food is served by the camp caretaker.
4. At Base camp, another luggage transition happens. Since we are required to carry Food and Water to Higher Camps, we had a total porter allowance of 20 Kg that can fit in a carry bag given the by the company or your own duffel bag. Food for higher camps is 6-7Kg per person (to begin with) is responsibility of the climber to be transported from Base camp to all higher camps and reduces between camps. We now had to scramble to reduce our camping gear for higher camps to 12-14 Kgs such that we can add food ration in there and keep it under 20 Kg and thereby not availing the premium porter service and not carrying additional load on our backs. Carrying food and water to higher camps is an optional/additional porter service, part of premium porter package and substantial additional cost.  Here, the personal load of our stuff is either given in a duffel bag or a white carry bag provided by the company. After we gave the 12-14kg of out personal belongings for porter service in our own duffel bags, to our surprise we later found, that the luggage is taken out of our duffels and the porter puts them in their own backpacks. This meant all the stuff that is organized in the duffel is disorganized and randomly put in porters backpack and re-put in the duffel bag at the destination camp. This was a major sore point as many things were misplaced. At base camp, we leave extra load of stuff that is not expected to be needed on higher camps.
5. At Camp1, we get our stuff in duffel bags placed randomly in the tents, find our bag, find a tent, use our stuff and repack in the morning to give back to the porter for camp 2 transport. 
6. At camp 2, we get our bag, again with some having things misplaced, we unpack, use and repack for Camp 3
7.  At camp 3, we get our stuff, again with some things misplaced for some, we unpack, use and repack for ride back to Base Camp. On return we do not stop at Camp 2 and 1.
8. At Base camp, we collect our stuff that was left earlier, get our stuff from higher camps, again repack to be be sent back to Penitentes via mules. In our case, we choose to return via Helicopter, hence loaded our luggage into Heli.

At higher camp, guides prepare cooked food from the raw/packaged food carried by the climbers personal porters. In our case, food was reasonably well suitable for the mountain. Some folks did have minor issues with the food, such as beans which is expected. There was a good choice of tea and coffee. On the last day we did not get any packed lunch while we were transiting from higher camp to base camp. Its interesting to find that we did not need lot of high calorie food during climb.

A notable feature of food and water responsibility of the climber was to fetch water at Camp 2. Since it was a rest day, the guide subtly added an exercise to fetch water from a frozen pond nearby. This was a fun and interesting activity. A few of us went to with the assistant guide to a frozen pond few minutes away from the campground where water would be uncontaminated from human waste. A hole was dug on the frozen pond surface and fresh water oozing out. The water was not very cold. The guide showed us how fill the water in the 5 ltr bottles and we all filled a few of them. On camp 3, water was created for melting snow blocks. Hardened snow was collected from the side of the mountain and collected in a bag that was melted to create water.

 Closure to the adventure

Success of an Adventure Expedition is in its journey. Certainly reaching the destination is a goal and matter of joy. Reaching the height of 22837 feet was a goal, however every foot of its climb was a success from the hours spent on this expedition. It helped us to understand ourselves better, learnt about advanced gear, our capabilities and deficiencies, summit our internal mountains and experience a new terrain, a new mountain and a new lifestyle.

Some of us reached a height of 20,500 feet, some at 19,700 which are new heights for all Doeres. Mother nature wasn’t fully supportive on the day to summit its highest point, perhaps another time.

There are many ways to accept or not, the results of the expedition. For some its an adventure and learning experience, for some its inability of the guides to help summit and for some, its the fate – The Mountain decided. Can another day and better planning help summit, perhaps. The mountain will still rule.

A closure note:

We all embarked upon a journey with a destination in mind, however we had to deplane in between. The journey was long and tough and reaching the destination tougher. It was a test of our strength, resolve, confidence and ego with Nature. Some came back happy, some not so. We took the help of “guides” for the journey but seemingly the guides didn’t take us to the destination. We can have many questions and may not find any answers, and the truth may be somewhere or never be known. The journey was a humbling experience of The Mountain (Nature) vs The Man (Ego). We would have liked to say we conquered (aka summitted) the mountain, however the mountain conquered the man. Hopefully the experience of the journey humbles us further, finds our inner mountains to conquer while continuing to climb outer mountains.  We can equate the endeavor to time and money spent to conquer, however we should thank the “guides” to help us realize that this journey is an endless Adventure without a destination, that the journey is about a continuous passion and not an obsession with a destination. We will have many more adventures without any summits but will have experiences of time well spent with Nature. Time and Money are man made and are renewable resources. Experiences will help live a better life in future. Hope to see you back on trails and journey “trains” .

Photo galleries:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/LhxqeE8xDjJPKrc8A

https://photos.app.goo.gl/PXbEEuDXg9evzTeQ9

Understanding: Oxygen at high altitude

• ← Aconcagua 2023
• My Journey to Aconcagua: Krishna →